Single Carb Getting Better But not There Yet, OVER IT! Went with Dual 44s Options

[Mblizzard]

Yea it is kind of a waste (Weber 36/38 DVG) but I have a number of projects that are sucking up $$$ so I am trying to make it a while with this set up. Had a huge stumble before changing to the 60s on the Accelerator jets. The stumble is mostly gone now. Waiting for a 70 to come in. But while its better, it seems to not want to idle. Regardless of how I try to adjust it acorroding to the instructions, it seems to want to die. At anything above idle it seems to be fine. The problem was there before the change but it was no better after. Did a good cleaning on everything else but did not change anything other than the accelerator diaphram. One thing I noticed is that fuel seems to be dripping into the primary. I am not sure if it was like this before as I had not looked in.

I am assuming this is not normal, so any thoughts on what I goofed up?

[vw505]

My Webpage

0) Set ignition dwell & timing first.

1) Idle Speed Screw: 1 turn open from *just* touching the tab

2) Idle Volume Screw (sometimes wrongly called the "Idle Mixture screw"): 2 turns out from LIGHTLY bottomed.

3) Start Engine

4) Adjust Idle Volume to highest idle speed while counting the turns or partial turns from the lightly bottomed position. Btwn 1-3/4 turns to 2-1/4 turns is where you want to be.
If more than 2-1/4 turns then Idle Jet is Lean - Increase jet size.
If less than 1-3/4 turns then Idle Jet is rich - Decrease Jet size.

5) Mains should start to drip out of the booster venturis at 3500 RPM
If the RPM is higher the Jets are too small. (See note on Air Corrector Jets)
If RPM is lower then the jets are too big. (See note on Air Corrector Jets)

Air Corrector Jets:
I do not have any simple way to tune these. They are modifiers of the range of the main jets & too a lesser degree the Idle jets. Air Jets have a progressively increasing (leaning) effect as the RPM's increase. And being that they are air jets, the larger they are the leaner the given mixture. It is possible to have two main jet & air jet combo's 'tip-in' at the same engine speed, and perform totally differently.
They can also be used, once your jetting is satisfactory, for altitude correction. There's a Rule Thumb that for every 2000 feet in altitude you can reduce the Air Corrector one size, but every engine will be a little different. Let experience by your guide here.

Emulsion Tubes:
They are located under the Air Corrector Jets. These are a black art. They are numbered in sequence of mfg, not progressively. An F4 preceeds an F5, but while an F4 might be nearly perfect for a 275 GT SWB Lusso V12 Ferrari, the F5 might have been developed for a 995cc Mini engine.
You will have to hope that the seller of your carb set it up with the correct Emulsion Tubes & leave them alone until you become an advanced Weber tuning guru.

Some Off Road specific notes:
If you live in an area where you can do away with the choke it behooves you to do so. The choke linkage is a dirt leakage path that is hard to totally seal off. I use regular J-B Weld for modifying carbs. The carb absolutely has to be clean for the J-B to stick. Over time the pressed-in plugs in the body can work loose. I put a dab of J-B on each and every plug, being sure to completely cover the plug and a little of the surrounding carb body. I use J-B to plug off all of the various ports & what-not associated with the removed choke.

And now the biggie, Float Bowl Vent mod:
The bowl vent, as delivered, is very suseptable to allowing slosh to enter the venturis. Which make the engine go really rich and blubber.
A note of caution on this mod: it is not a very complicated mod, but it does offer the opportunity to mangle the carb beyond use if not done right. If you need to be shown where the vents are, this is not a mod you should be doing. Proceed at own risk, I accept no responsibility for any mishaps