Keith Black wrist pin lubricant Options

[jmargush]

I was reading the tech sheet that came with the pistons and they mention to make sure you use a high pressure lubricant on the pin and pin bore.

Is Brad Penn break in oil ok or do I need something else?

[DBCooper]

No flame, but the cylinders are honed at a sharp angle, not smooth, so the rings take the top rough surface off the hone, seating the rings into the cylinders. From that point onward it's like you describe it, with the rings being scrapers, and not much metal wear any more. You're also right about it being all in after the first few heat cycles, so the "break in" that we all used to go through, when rings were usually about an eight of an inch wide, is pretty much a thing of the past.

You want a flame? I always used to lube the cylinder walls with oil, American style, from what I learned as a kid with farm equipment. Then twenty or so years ago on the first internet bulletin boards I heard aircooled VW builders putting them together dry, with no cylinder wall lube at all. I though they were crazy, they didn't agree and said they had better break-in experiences that I was seeing, so I tried it. It didn't explode on ignition, instead seemed to run very well, made less smoke but didn't get any hotter than usual, went out the door without problem, and I saw the car every service through probably 75K miles, without any problems. So I've been more open-minded since, but still lube the cylinder walls.

I used to use assembly lube or regular motor oil interchangeably on the pins, no apparent difference. Assembly lube is probably better, though.