Rebel Bushing Install, also yet another reason I dont let "pro" shops touch my cars Options

[JamesM]

I have never really documented the work I do on my cars, but figure this might be a good place to start as I have not seen too many people out there running these Rebel Racing Bushings.

Start with a little back story:

A long time ago, in a state far far away... or at least as far left as you can go on the map. 13 or so years ago, before I did much work on my own cars I had some failing front bushings replaced with poly ones by a local alignment shot. They were ok aside from squeaking all the time, but then I really didn't push my car to the limit on a regular basis back then. Fast forward to today, been autocrossing for 5 or so years, always felt like the car has pushed really bad in the tighter stuff and always seems to lose traction in the front WAY to easy under breaking. Came to the conclusion that a lot of it is probably the poly bushings in the front sucking major @$$ and binding all the time. I had not planned on doing this upgrade this year but a failed rear bushing meant I had to get an alignment anyways so I figured might as well just do them all.

Decided to go with the Rebel front setup as I like the design and don't like having to lube bushings all the time.


Crapy phone pics to come...

[Eric_Shea]

Eric also recomends jb welding them into the contorl arm and installing zerks, I have not yet, again because I am not sure how long they will be in there.


Maybe Eric can add some more tips here, all my info came from him.

Pretty much spot on James. Jeff, these bushings don't compress. They're very hard at 70D.

Here's some final updates to the 70D bushing thread:

1. Use the McMaster 1x3" sanding drum to hone the bore to match the shaft. As James mentioned, this is a trial fit method. I like to use the drum in a drill press and spin the bushing as I move it up and down. Also, as mentioned herein, the bushing can get warm and expand. What is a "snug fit" just after honing will become a tight to no fit when it cools slightly. Do one until it just fits, then move on to another. While you're honing that bushing the first one will cool enough to trial fit. THEY SHOULD BE VERY SNUG. The weight of the car and the grease will allow for precise movement without binding. Once you have the trial fit on each shaft, keep the units together. McMaster Parts #46715A84

2. Next, trial fit the bushings in the arm. The arms are not precise and (hopefully) your bushing hone job is. This means you may need to take a little bit more off the inside to get the shaft through bushing. Before honing again, try different combinations. Make a mental note and keep the bushings and rod ends in the same orientation throughout this process.

3. Once you get the arms to fit through the bushings you'll need to address the tops. I do this with a sanding disc, again, in the drill press. As mentioned above, keep the units together in the same orientation now that you have them all fitting in the arms. Take one bushing at a time and put it in the press vise if you have one and mill the top down using 80 grit and disc holder McMaster Part #4702A71. You'll probably end up taking almost 1/2 the beveled step down in this process. Again, trial fit until the knurled edges of the shaft are exposed on each end. Try to take equal amounts off the top of each bushing.

4. Once you have all of the shafts fitting in the bushings and the ends of the bushings are set to the proper depth behind the knurled ends, JB Weld the bushings in place and forget about them for 24 hours.

5. Install zerks 15/16" down from the lip. On the outside section of the tube (the long tube side) install the zerk in the center of the tube facing back toward the hub. On the inside section of the tube (the part closest to where it bolts to the body mount) install the zerk down and by the handbrake tab (early cars). To install zerks properly you'll want to follow a few simple steps. a ) mask off the location with 3M blue tape and make a x mark where you want the zerk to go. b ) use a punch and indent the arm where you are going to drill (on the x presumably). c ) get a good quality bit that won't dull the first time you use it and make sure it's the exact size you need to tap your zerk hole. d ) drill and tap. e ) remove the tape and install the zerk. DON'T GO CRAZY TRYING TO LINE UP THE ZERK WHERE YOU WANT IT! It will snap off in your newly tapped hole.

These are not the standard plastic bushings. They are made by the same manufacturer but using the hardest compound they have. If installed properly and lubricated annually they should last a lifetime and never squeak. That said; James brings up a good point... he may not have them in there forever. I don't think JB Weld will be a problem as all you would need to do is heat them with a torch and the JB weld should come loose. I do suggest the 15/16" placement of the zerks because that is where the Elephant PolyBronze zerks go. If you do decide to install Elephants you'll be ready to go. In his case, he has the Rebel unit up front and may want to go with the Rebel 914 rears when they come available. Based upon the Rebel "teflon" type front technology you won't need zerks but those holes can easily be plugged if you go that route..

[Jeff Hail]

Eric also recomends jb welding them into the contorl arm and installing zerks, I have not yet, again because I am not sure how long they will be in there.


Maybe Eric can add some more tips here, all my info came from him.

Pretty much spot on James. Jeff, these bushings don't compress. They're very hard at 70D.

Here's some final updates to the 70D bushing thread:

1. Use the McMaster 1x3" sanding drum to hone the bore to match the shaft. As James mentioned, this is a trial fit method. I like to use the drum in a drill press and spin the bushing as I move it up and down. Also, as mentioned herein, the bushing can get warm and expand. What is a "snug fit" just after honing will become a tight to no fit when it cools slightly. Do one until it just fits, then move on to another. While you're honing that bushing the first one will cool enough to trial fit. THEY SHOULD BE VERY SNUG. The weight of the car and the grease will allow for precise movement without binding. Once you have the trial fit on each shaft, keep the units together. McMaster Parts #46715A84

2. Next, trial fit the bushings in the arm. The arms are not precise and (hopefully) your bushing hone job is. This means you may need to take a little bit more off the inside to get the shaft through bushing. Before honing again, try different combinations. Make a mental note and keep the bushings and rod ends in the same orientation throughout this process.

3. Once you get the arms to fit through the bushings you'll need to address the tops. I do this with a sanding disc, again, in the drill press. As mentioned above, keep the units together in the same orientation now that you have them all fitting in the arms. Take one bushing at a time and put it in the press vise if you have one and mill the top down using 80 grit and disc holder McMaster Part #4702A71. You'll probably end up taking almost 1/2 the beveled step down in this process. Again, trial fit until the knurled edges of the shaft are exposed on each end. Try to take equal amounts off the top of each bushing.

4. Once you have all of the shafts fitting in the bushings and the ends of the bushings are set to the proper depth behind the knurled ends, JB Weld the bushings in place and forget about them for 24 hours.

5. Install zerks 15/16" down from the lip. On the outside section of the tube (the long tube side) install the zerk in the center of the tube facing back toward the hub. On the inside section of the tube (the part closest to where it bolts to the body mount) install the zerk down and by the handbrake tab (early cars). To install zerks properly you'll want to follow a few simple steps. a ) mask off the location with 3M blue tape and make a x mark where you want the zerk to go. b ) use a punch and indent the arm where you are going to drill (on the x presumably). c ) get a good quality bit that won't dull the first time you use it and make sure it's the exact size you need to tap your zerk hole. d ) drill and tap. e ) remove the tape and install the zerk. DON'T GO CRAZY TRYING TO LINE UP THE ZERK WHERE YOU WANT IT! It will snap off in your newly tapped hole.

These are not the standard plastic bushings. They are made by the same manufacturer but using the hardest compound they have. If installed properly and lubricated annually they should last a lifetime and never squeak. That said; James brings up a good point... he may not have them in there forever. I don't think JB Weld will be a problem as all you would need to do is heat them with a torch and the JB weld should come loose. I do suggest the 15/16" placement of the zerks because that is where the Elephant PolyBronze zerks go. If you do decide to install Elephants you'll be ready to go. In his case, he has the Rebel unit up front and may want to go with the Rebel 914 rears when they come available. Based upon the Rebel "teflon" type front technology you won't need zerks but those holes can easily be plugged if you go that route..

Capece Mr. Shea,
70 is a pretty firm durometer. You could drive on that or roller skate.