Thank you to 914 World and New Problem- Fuel System, Fuel System Options

[Oregon74]

First- without the help of Admin Andy and Timothy nd 28- my 1975 1.8 L jet would not be on the road. Thank you to everyone who helped me.

NEW ISSUE I NEED HELP FINDING- WHY CAN'T THE ENGINE CONTINUE TO RUN?

The engine will start. (I was having a problem with the ignition not turning the motor over- but I think I solved it with a fuse and a relay problem). Now, she starts every time, but then stops after a few seconds. It appears either my fuel pump is out or I'm not getting enough electricity to the pump to run it.

I have installed a MSN fuel pump. It is high presure and worked perfect out of the box. I put about 2,000 miles on the car before this mystery started.

I've checked the in-line fuel filter and it seems fine. (I do live in Southern Oregon where during the winter the area is forced to run oxigenated fuel that is known to cause problems with older cars- but since she starts just fine I think my injectors are ok.)

I've pulled the relay apart and all contacts seem to hit just fine.

My questions:

1. Could a new fuel pump go bad this fast?
2. If I'm not getting enough electricity, or have a bad end, where in the world do I find the wires in the engine bay? The pump is connected with a brown and a black (ground) wire.
3. Could it still be the relay?

Thanks in advance of to everyone who might chip in advice. I am not experienced checking voltages- but am willing to learn.

The problem with this car is: I've got the body in great shape, put a new interior kit in, and have thought about selling it to finance either an SC or a motor for my 365c, but I'm really starting to love this little car. Or as my wife calls it: The Hot Wheel.

Thanks,

JAA
Oregon

[timothy_nd28]

At this point, the fuel pump works when you deflect the AFM flap and have a jumper on pin 86c to 12v and a jumper on pin 85 to battery ground.

So with this known good configuration, leave the jumpers on and start the car. The car should run. With the car idling, remove the pin 85 to gnd jumper. Does the car remain running? If no, consider making a new wire from pin 85 to the battery neg. post.

If the car remains running after removing the first jumper, remove the 2nd jumper (86c to +12vdc). Does the car remain running? (it shouldn't). Right when the car stalls, pull out your voltmeter. Your red meter lead on pin 86c and the black meter lead to the negative post on your battery. Anything less than 12vdc, leads me to believe that you have a faulty ignition switch. Pin 86c should read 12vdc when the ignition switch is turn to the "on" position.

[Oregon74]

At this point, the fuel pump works when you deflect the AFM flap and have a jumper on pin 86c to 12v and a jumper on pin 85 to battery ground.

So with this known good configuration, leave the jumpers on and start the car. The car should run. With the car idling, remove the pin 85 to gnd jumper. Does the car remain running? If no, consider making a new wire from pin 85 to the battery neg. post.

If the car remains running after removing the first jumper, remove the 2nd jumper (86c to +12vdc). Does the car remain running? (it shouldn't). Right when the car stalls, pull out your voltmeter. Your red meter lead on pin 86c and the black meter lead to the negative post on your battery. Anything less than 12vdc, leads me to believe that you have a faulty ignition switch. Pin 86c should read 12vdc when the ignition switch is turn to the "on" position.

Thanks Tim- Will try it all and report back. JAA