cylinder head temp sensor, what the brain thinks Options

[worn]

Well, I have been tweaking the MPS. I still am having low torque below 2,000 rpm, making smooth transitions to speed a bit more dramatic than I would like. I think that the cam may be playing a role here that I may never tune out completely. Now over 2,000 is another story (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif)

The point of this post is that if you are fooling around and the cylinder head temperature lead (I think it is Temp I) comes undone, the brain sees infinite resistance. It therefore, on a warm summer evening, thinks the motor is frozen cold and dumps in fuel. It won't start. You have spark, you have fuel, but the thing is flooded to the gills. Nooo, its EFI! Yep, flooded. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif)

So I started thinking that a spare might be in order since no start can mean travel by foot - or used to before cell phones. An alternative would be alligator clips to simply ground the lead. That way the brain would think the engine was hot and you could limp home. My list of spares on a trip away from home is growing.

[ThinAir]

FWIW, I'm running an Elgin 330-1 cam in an otherwise stock 2.0L. This was recommended to me back in the days of the "you have to buy ceramic lifters" era (which turned out to actually be a problem with webcam cores). I've been running this cam for about 10 years.

About a year ago, my injector points went bad, and somehow in the process of swapping distributors I ended up with some low idle issues. I ended up putting in a 300 ohm HTS resistor instead of the stock 270 ohm. I got the idea from some threads about getting the smoothest possible idle. I think my basic problem was that the TPS was not properly calibrated and that it was running rich. Changing the resistor actually made the low idle problem worse by making it richer. After setting the TPS, I adjusted the ECU leaner & leaner until it idled smooth.

I've never had an issue with the 330-1 and stock FI, but with this combination it is idling better than it ever has and it transitions from very smoothly from idle to accelerate. It's kind of counter-intuitive to do one thing to make it run rich, and another to lean it out, but it seems to be working. I haven't run a full tank of fuel yet to check mileage so the jury is still out as to whether I'll go back to the 270 ohm.