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mskala |
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R ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,935 Joined: 2-January 03 From: Massachusetts Member No.: 79 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
Even though I have a Garretson proportioning valve that keeps the
pedal feel pretty good, there's always a bunch of free play before the brakes start really working. Anyway, I had an excuse to get into the rear wheels, and I adjusted all the adjusters like 1/32 of a turn back from where they grab the wheels. The pedal free play was much much less and all was right with the world. Of course about 3 days later we did the autocross, and by the time I was driving home the excessive free play was back. . (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) If this wasn't a street car in a stickler inspection state, and a sort-of 'classic' car that I want to keep close to normal, I'd go to a real rear caliper design. |
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Cap'n Krusty |
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#2
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Cap'n Krusty ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California ![]() |
Long ago, and far, far away, the instructor at P-car school said to ignore the 0.008" figure and use 0.004" (measured at the thickest point of the rotor). It works, and resolves most of the low pedal issues I've ever encountered. I can't recall any time when the adjustment got loose enough to recognize as a problem, but then I don't work on many track cars, and the couple I've done in the past didn't have stock brakes. Going to a system where you lose the handbrake is shaky, at best, and illegal in most (if not all) states. The Cap'n
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