electrical connectors |
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electrical connectors |
jimkelly |
Nov 25 2013, 01:58 PM
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#1
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Delaware USA Group: Members Posts: 4,969 Joined: 5-August 04 From: Delaware, USA Member No.: 2,460 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
I am starting to think these may be the best way to go.
insulated heat shrink connectors along with one good ratcheting insulated connector crimper, for all male, female and butt connectors 22-18, 16-14, 12-10. vs bouncing from tool to tool, depending on size of connector and style of connector. pic is of an low dollar partially insulated connector, not a fully insulated heat shrink style connector. also good to know that the bump on the crimper should be on the opposite side of the seam on the connector. but you guys already knew this : ) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CS_YS-F9Z2E this also looks like a handy tool to have as well for the heavy guage stuff. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxavPsio2iw Attached image(s) |
stugray |
Nov 26 2013, 04:32 PM
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#2
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,825 Joined: 17-September 09 From: Longmont, CO Member No.: 10,819 Region Association: None |
I did the following when I rebuilt my entire harness from scratch:
1 - Strip the crappy plastic insulator from a TIN plated crimp connector (the really cheap crimp connectors have BAD plating) 2 - install heat shrink tubing over the wire 3 - crimp connection in place with the lowest of the tools in the above pic (crimpers intended for the connection will no longer work once you remove the plastic insulator) 4 - solder connection with butane torch & proper electronics solder 5 - Heatshrink over connector. I will see if I can find some pictures. I find it hard to believe that a soldered & crimped connection can crack any more that a crimped connection can just come loose. |
Spoke |
Nov 27 2013, 04:11 AM
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#3
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Jerry Group: Members Posts: 6,991 Joined: 29-October 04 From: Allentown, PA Member No.: 3,031 Region Association: None |
I did the following when I rebuilt my entire harness from scratch: 1 - Strip the crappy plastic insulator from a TIN plated crimp connector (the really cheap crimp connectors have BAD plating) 2 - install heat shrink tubing over the wire 3 - crimp connection in place with the lowest of the tools in the above pic (crimpers intended for the connection will no longer work once you remove the plastic insulator) 4 - solder connection with butane torch & proper electronics solder 5 - Heatshrink over connector. I will see if I can find some pictures. I find it hard to believe that a soldered & crimped connection can crack any more that a crimped connection can just come loose. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) This is a very good way to do DIY connectors. I've heard solder connections being dissed before and depending on how they are done, it's probably well placed. A wire connector must have 2 important properties: A very secure mechanical fastening and a very robust electrical connection. The crimp provides the mechanical connection keeping the wire securely fastened to the eyelet. The solder makes a very robust electrical connection between wire and eyelet. If the wire is merely slipped through the sleeve of the eyelet and soldered, the solder is tasked with mechanical securing. Solder is a very soft metal and will loosen over time if constantly stressed especially in a high heat environment like the engine compartment. Silver solder is better but harder to work with because of the higher melting temp. |
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