spring rates for rough tracks, opinions and advice sought |
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spring rates for rough tracks, opinions and advice sought |
Seabird |
Nov 27 2013, 01:13 PM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 165 Joined: 21-November 13 From: United States Member No.: 16,683 Region Association: South East States |
For those who run on Sebring and equivalently rough tracks what is a good starting point for torsion bars and spring rates on a -4 with DOT R type tires and Koni Sports.
I have done a search and see a lot of advice from West Coast drivers. Also spoke to the experts at Elephant (F 23mm R 250#) but again they have limited rough track experience. Thanks in advance! |
ThePaintedMan |
Nov 27 2013, 04:51 PM
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#2
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,886 Joined: 6-September 11 From: St. Petersburg, FL Member No.: 13,527 Region Association: South East States |
I would think there are some other variables here that you'd need to include first. HP and weight figures of your car would be toward the top of the list. Also, what other handling items do you have? Swaybars? Have you done any chassis stiffening?
I.e. if you've got a ton of HP, a really stiff rear end may not be the best way to go. Likewise, if you put crazy springs in it and have not done a whole lot of stiffening, then the extra stress from bumps will be less absorbed by the now-hard springs, meaning that stress goes into the chassis. In my opinion, which is based mostly on what I've learned from seasoned guys like T.C., Sebring is not as rough as everyone makes it out to be. I've driven it in several types of cars now, and until you get into the really low, stiff cars with less total suspension travel, grip isn't as much of a problem as one might think. However, it seems like 250lb springs would put you in the range of way too stiff, unless you're driving a V8 conversion or something with a ton of weight toward the rear. Again, I am by far still very much a novice though, so I'll wait for the big boys to chime in. My car is a /4 with stock bars in the front, a stock swaybar and stock springs and DOT R tires. At Sebring I never felt like I was every really out of grip or had any problems with the bumps. If anything, I'd like just a little more spring or swaybar in the back to give me a little better turn-in, and produce a little more oversteer. I think 140 or at VERY most, 180 lb springs in the back would do it. I'd leave the front alone. |
nolift914 |
Nov 27 2013, 04:59 PM
Post
#3
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Autoxer Group: Members Posts: 183 Joined: 24-May 09 From: Rockaway Beach NY Member No.: 10,399 Region Association: None |
I would think there are some other variables here that you'd need to include first. HP and weight figures of your car would be toward the top of the list. Also, what other handling items do you have? Swaybars? Have you done any chassis stiffening? I.e. if you've got a ton of HP, a really stiff rear end may not be the best way to go. Likewise, if you put crazy springs in it and have not done a whole lot of stiffening, then the extra stress from bumps will be less absorbed by the now-hard springs, meaning that stress goes into the chassis. In my opinion, which is based mostly on what I've learned from seasoned guys like T.C., Sebring is not as rough as everyone makes it out to be. I've driven it in several types of cars now, and until you get into the really low, stiff cars with less total suspension travel, grip isn't as much of a problem as one might think. However, it seems like 250lb springs would put you in the range of way too stiff, unless you're driving a V8 conversion or something with a ton of weight toward the rear. Again, I am by far still very much a novice though, so I'll wait for the big boys to chime in. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) |
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