ISO Trailing arm bushing ream advice Options

[HalfMoon]

Hi all,
I'm doing my trailing arms bushings today (poly) and knowing they have to be reamed for the shaft so I grabbed a brake/cylinder honer I had handy and started boring the bushing (like what I'd seen in threads here at World.)
Unfortunately I'll grow old a die before this method gets me anywhere. Simply put, it's not cutting it (or hardly).
I saw in a thread that Eric with PMB now uses a small 3X1 barrel sander to get this work done (like this one http://www.mcmaster.com/#rubber-drums/=qlel82) and so I guess I'll go ahead and order one along with a bunch of sanding bands...but even then, I've heard the task can be a rather long one.
Anyone have experience with this job and have a tool recommendation to cut this material using garage type tools (drill)?

[motorvated]

Hi all,
I'm doing my trailing arms bushings today (poly) and knowing they have to be reamed for the shaft so I grabbed a brake/cylinder honer I had handy and started boring the bushing (like what I'd seen in threads here at World.)
Unfortunately I'll grow old a die before this method gets me anywhere. Simply put, it's not cutting it (or hardly).
I saw in a thread that Eric with PMB now uses a small 3X1 barrel sander to get this work done (like this one http://www.mcmaster.com/#rubber-drums/=qlel82) and so I guess I'll go ahead and order one along with a bunch of sanding bands...but even then, I've heard the task can be a rather long one.
Anyone have experience with this job and have a tool recommendation to cut this material using garage type tools (drill)?

I just completed the reaming and installing process for the hard poly bushings. The 1" sanding drum was too large for my pivot shaft diameter, so I used a 3/4" sanding drum in my drill press and slowly reamed them while a held them in hand and moved them slowly around to get a nice even ream. Did a lot of test fitting until I got them just slightly snug. Didn't take very long at all. After reaming them, I had to sand down the outside faces until the outer surfaces of the pivot bolts were just slightly proud of the outer surfaces of the pivot bolts when the bushings are in place in the control arms. So the pivot bolt faces will snug up to the mountings rather than tightening down on the bushings selves.

[HalfMoon]

Hi all,
I'm doing my trailing arms bushings today (poly) and knowing they have to be reamed for the shaft so I grabbed a brake/cylinder honer I had handy and started boring the bushing (like what I'd seen in threads here at World.)
Unfortunately I'll grow old a die before this method gets me anywhere. Simply put, it's not cutting it (or hardly).
I saw in a thread that Eric with PMB now uses a small 3X1 barrel sander to get this work done (like this one http://www.mcmaster.com/#rubber-drums/=qlel82) and so I guess I'll go ahead and order one along with a bunch of sanding bands...but even then, I've heard the task can be a rather long one.
Anyone have experience with this job and have a tool recommendation to cut this material using garage type tools (drill)?

I just completed the reaming and installing process for the hard poly bushings. The 1" sanding drum was too large for my pivot shaft diameter, so I used a 3/4" sanding drum in my drill press and slowly reamed them while a held them in hand and moved them slowly around to get a nice even ream. Did a lot of test fitting until I got them just slightly snug. Didn't take very long at all. After reaming them, I had to sand down the outside faces until the outer surfaces of the pivot bolts were just slightly proud of the outer surfaces of the pivot bolts when the bushings are in place in the control arms. So the pivot bolt faces will snug up to the mountings rather than tightening down on the bushings selves.

Hmmm. That comes as somthing of a suprise. The 1" was what Eric recommended and measurement of my bushing indicates 1" would be the appropriate drum. But you're saying that didn't fit and you used a 3/4".
And you say you bored until "snug". Snug on the installed bushing or snug out of the trailing arm. Mine are snug off the arm but quite snug (difficult to turn) when installed. I was given to understand they should turn freely by hand once installed on the arm (or rather the shaft should turn freely in them).
I'm just about to spend 30 bux at McMaster Carr for the 1" but don't want to be making a mistake that'll cost me...