Stalls out at 4400 RPM, Stumped! Options

[Mblizzard]

Well I am a bit confused on this one. 2056 dual Webers. Electronic ignition. New SVDA dizzy. Rev limiting rotor.

Pulled the tank to install SS lines and had a few problems with crimping the lines when putting the tank back but I think I have that worked out. Compression good at 130 plus on all. Timing set at 30 BTDC.

Car runs strong up to exactly 4400 rpm and then it sounds like it hits a wall. Can run it long and hard at rpms below so I am not thinking it is fuel limited. Swapped out the rev limiting rotor with standard one but same thing happens.

I am going to pull the tank again to be sure on the lines. Any other thoughts?

[aircooledtechguy]

I would pull that new SVDA dizzy out and throw it as far as you possibly can. I've had 2 clients w/in the past week that have had these very things cause serious running issues. Just because it's "new" doesn't mean it works right. They are a total POS IMHO.

Find a good used German dizzy, clean it up, install new Bosch tune-up parts and install that. This may or may not be part of the problem, but it WILL become a problem in the near future. The problem is usually the LAST thing you installed. . . (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[Mblizzard]

I would pull that new SVDA dizzy out and throw it as far as you possibly can. I've had 2 clients w/in the past week that have had these very things cause serious running issues. Just because it's "new" doesn't mean it works right. They are a total POS IMHO.

Find a good used German dizzy, clean it up, install new Bosch tune-up parts and install that. This may or may not be part of the problem, but it WILL become a problem in the near future. The problem is usually the LAST thing you installed. . . (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

I have heard that. But this was just to be a transition for going back to FI. I have the 2.0 and a 1.8 dizzy with electronic ignition. Any preference on which one? Still has stock cam.

[r_towle]

I would pull that new SVDA dizzy out and throw it as far as you possibly can. I've had 2 clients w/in the past week that have had these very things cause serious running issues. Just because it's "new" doesn't mean it works right. They are a total POS IMHO.

Find a good used German dizzy, clean it up, install new Bosch tune-up parts and install that. This may or may not be part of the problem, but it WILL become a problem in the near future. The problem is usually the LAST thing you installed. . . (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

I have heard that. But this was just to be a transition for going back to FI. I have the 2.0 and a 1.8 dizzy with electronic ignition. Any preference on which one? Still has stock cam.

1.8 ljet dizzy seems better for carbs.

What one you use when you go back to FI is dependent upon what FI you plan to use.
Both will support your engine.

Look for kinked rubber lines.
If no, then look at which line you are using for the feed line.
The return line is a smaller diameter...

If none of that is obvious, put a clear fuel filter in the engine bay on the feed side.
Run the motor up and see if you are having a fuel starvation issue.

If it worked before you did the fuel lines, and nothing else was changed when you did the lines...and by nothing, I mean nothing....then you need to figure out what happened to the fuel delivery.

If you happen to mess with the distributor when putting in the lines...well, now you have two diagnostic roads to go down....



rich