Some more Q's (Updates), Backfires and spitting through carb on 1 side Options

[Moneypit]

Okay, so I've sat down and started trying to plan where I want to go with the 914. I've got a few dillemas and questions, and could use some advice, criticism, whatever floats your boat.

Firstly, motor is a 2.0 rebuilt with slightly higher compression than stock, and has a cam set up for carburetors (I have the details from Dan around here somewhere). In the pre-Ethanol days, this would not have bothered me one bit. However, I feel like the Webers in the past were always a PITA, between throttle linkage, synchronizing, stuff like floats, jets, needles, etc. Now that Ethanol is being pushed more and more, I'm hearing these issues that it can eat away at older rubber lines and other materials, break down if it sits too long, cause rust in fuel tanks, the list goes on. So my first dilemma then is to keep the carbs, or ditch? Can I "ethanol proof" the Webers, ie replace any rubber with newer materials, brass? What about the floats themselves? I Really, Really loved the sound of the carbs, but I am wondering whether there is a better solution? Stock FI bits are long gone btw.

Following onto the question of keeping/ditching the carbs, lets say I did ditch them, would Megasquirt or something work well with the cam? If I understand correctly a carb-specced cam would have a longer duration than the stock FI cam. I'm wondering if Megasquirt or another standalone FI can take advantage of that?

Secondly, I have the Empi 8-spoke style wheels, which I really dig. How strong are these? I can try and get some pics of them at some point to verify brand and everything if needed, but I'd heard in the past the "Riviera" wheels on my old 1.8 weren't very strong, and weren't recommended for autocross or heavy turning loads. I don't plan to autocross, however I do like to drive somewhat aggressively at times, and do want to try and do a track day at COTA sometime. Are the Empi's fine for that, or is there another similar looking alternative that's stronger?

Third, I'm also hung up on paint. The car is white right now, with an attempted creamsicle LE style job on the rockers and doors. Bumpers are chrome, front valance is stock but beat up. At one point I tried to mock up some paint schemes, but with the body being white and me not being willing to strip the car completely down for painting, I am thinking that she's going to have to stay white. I like the 2-tone LM style paint, but I don't want to make a "fake" LM car. What other color combos might look good with white, but leaving the wheels white? The wheels are already white but I figured I'd strip them down and refinish them. Not sure I want the wheels to be trim color. At one point I thought of a blue, that would be somewhat unique. Also wouldn't go with the Porsche lettering in proper NARP fashion. Just 914 badging where appropriate.

Last (for now), I plan to delete the center console, but I want to retain the gauges as in the heat down here I want to be able to keep a good eye on all the vitals. Are there some good sources for mounting some engine gauges under the dash, that will still have a 60's/70's Porsche racing look? In the interior I kind of wanted to go classic Porsche racing theme, with the bare Rennshift, maybe redo the doors "RS" style with simple door pulls/latches, pull the heat/AC controls since I have no Heat Exchangers, etc. Might try a stealth or retro-look modern stereo for the longer trips. Any reccomendations for 904 style or similar gauges? Maybe a 917 style shift ball for the Rennshift?

[aircooledtechguy]

If you keep the Webers, ditch the X-bar linkage in favor of either CSP twist linkage, or Tangerine Racing cable linkage. Of these two, I like the Tangerine cable linkage the best but both are vast improvements over the X-bar style. Either of these will allow you to just drive it and not have to fiddle under the deck trying to get it all right from month to month.

If you go with a stand alone EFI system, Megasquirt will work with ANY cam you pair it with. Only the stock injection D/L-jet systems force your hand into running a specific cam. The new motor I'm building for my 2.3L T-4 that will soon power my Shop-car will have a cam with just over 300 degrees of duration. MS will handle it because you're not just using a MAP sensor like a stock EFI. You have the ability to blend MAP, TPS and inputs from a WB02 and the other engine sensors. It's a really capable system.