Shift coupler bushing options ? Options

[pete000]

I am replacing my shift coupler bushings.

I purchased a white delrin set and they were way too sloppy and a poor fit. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)
Next up is a set of urethane and they fit much tighter but the pin still floats around in the holes which appear to be oval shaped? Not sure if I would like that play due to the pin floating in the oval shaped holes. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

I saw a set of solid brass bushings, these look interesting. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

Has any one used them? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

Are the pivot holes supposed to be oval shaped with slop around the pivot pin? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

Any brand better than others? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

There seems to be a lot of manufacturers out there and the prices go from $12 bucks to $40.00 for the brass ones. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[ChrisFoley]

The universal joint I use to replace the coupler attaches to the stock tunnel rod with a stock cone screw.
I also have a flange to hold the stock boot in place.
AFAIK, no other available upgrade offers those features. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

[r_towle]

The universal joint I use to replace the coupler attaches to the stock tunnel rod with a stock cone screw.
I also have a flange to hold the stock boot in place.
AFAIK, no other available upgrade offers those features. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

So your solution has a new coupler and rod, with the tail shifter flange and boot?

If so, that is a solution....well done.

Please confirm, I will buy that....

Rich

[ChrisFoley]

So your solution has a new coupler and rod, with the tail shifter flange and boot?

If so, that is a solution....well done.

Please confirm, I will buy that....

Rich

That's a side shift flange (fabricated in-house) and (your) boot.
We don't include the boot in the kit.

[Qarl]

So your solution has a new coupler and rod, with the tail shifter flange and boot?

If so, that is a solution....well done.

Please confirm, I will buy that....

Rich

That's a side shift flange (fabricated in-house) and (your) boot.
We don't include the boot in the kit.

CHris,

Can you please talk a little about the stock coupler, versus the 2 types of universal joints pictured above?

Educate us a little about the advantages of each in comparison to shift feel, shift accuracy, and wear over time.

Thanks!

Q

[ChrisFoley]

CHris,

Can you please talk a little about the stock coupler, versus the 2 types of universal joints pictured above?

Educate us a little about the advantages of each in comparison to shift feel, shift accuracy, and wear over time.

Thanks!

Q

In your picture,
The top piece is an Apex universal (helicopter) joint, made to military specifications. Nicely made, lightweight, and expensive. The ends are thin, made for welding to a tube.
The front of the Patrick rod is a new steering u-joint, not really made to be left out in the weather. The real problem is clamping onto the tunnel shift rod.
No matter how hard you're able to wrench on the bolt, it won't grip the round rod end very well.
The two u-joints in the pic from my website are used at the console end of my shift rod.
I offer a used stock steering u-joint for people to save some money.
Kits with the new u-joint are more popular, and I really prefer that design.
Its a high quality new steering u-joint made for race cars with two different spline patterns. Viton o-rings seal the bearing cups.
One end is the same shape as our steering shafts and the other is a proprietary design of the u-joint mfr.
36 splines at one end and 20 at the other allows rotational adjustments of 2 degrees.

Our latest development is that we now machine our own 36 spline rod ends in-house, ending my search for good used steering shafts.

The front u-joint we use is known as a "take-apart, pin and block universal joint."
We disassemble them to machine the ends, one end matches the stock tunnel rod and the other welds on a 3/4" od steel tube. An 8mm nut welded to the front end holds the cone screw. Our boot flange has a hole in the center the same size as the u-joint dia.