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Mblizzard |
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#1
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,033 Joined: 28-January 13 From: Knoxville Tn Member No.: 15,438 Region Association: South East States ![]() |
I have a 1973 2.0 built to a 2056 running stock fuel injection. I am running points and I have verified the dwell and timing are correct. The air temperature sensor on the throttle body is disconnected due to it causing the engine to hunt excessively at idle. The valve were set less than 500 miles ago.
The car starts and runs fine on initial start. It at times has a little hesitation on acceleration due to the wear on the TPS board I think. As the engine warms up into the normal range, I experience a significant loss of power. The temp never goes past the "M" on the temp gauge. There is never any pinging. But there is just no instant response to pressing the accelerator that is present when the engine is cool. At times pushing the accelerator results in little or no engine response for a brief period and the engine almost stalls. I have checked numerous times for vacuum leaks, lose wires, and made sure the grounds are good. Checked the plugs and it does not appear to be running rich or lean. I tried to calibrate the TPS according to the Pelican article but never really got the readings as indicated in the article. I am going to go back through it one more time but I need some suggestions as to what I should check next? |
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r_towle |
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#2
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Custom Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 24,705 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
did you recalibrate your MPS?
Do you have a knob on top of the ECU? If you do, turn it off, all the way. Rich |
Mblizzard |
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#3
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,033 Joined: 28-January 13 From: Knoxville Tn Member No.: 15,438 Region Association: South East States ![]() |
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TheCabinetmaker |
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#4
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I drive my car everyday ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8,336 Joined: 8-May 03 From: Tulsa, Ok. Member No.: 666 ![]() |
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Mblizzard |
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#5
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,033 Joined: 28-January 13 From: Knoxville Tn Member No.: 15,438 Region Association: South East States ![]() |
Have not redone the MPS. But while I am sure that will help overall, it does not seem like the MPS would cause this issue. It would if it was too lean or too rich at WOT OK just to be clear, I am asking the following question because I don't know the answer. I am not doubting your response. If I understand the MPS it essentially controls the length of the injector pulse based on manifold pressure. While there is a temp component in the overall system, the MPS does not change the pulse based on temp. Because this only occurs when the engine is warm, the MPS should be functioning correctly? |
worn |
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#6
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Winner of the Utah Twisted Joint Award ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,470 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() ![]() |
OK just to be clear, I am asking the following question because I don't know the answer. I am not doubting your response. If I understand the MPS it essentially controls the length of the injector pulse based on manifold pressure. While there is a temp component in the overall system, the MPS does not change the pulse based on temp. Because this only occurs when the engine is warm, the MPS should be functioning correctly? That depends on how well it really runs when it is cold. The enrichment part of the system could be masking problems that are caused by the MPS. A rich engine for example might run OK cold, or a lean one might be OK when the cold enrichment circuit is on and then not well when the engine warms up. Did it run ok before? People are suggesting the MPS because often a 2056 needs a tweak at the MPS to go with the non-stock engine. But, if it ran fine before with the stock MPS then that isn't an issue for you. |
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