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Mblizzard |
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#1
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,033 Joined: 28-January 13 From: Knoxville Tn Member No.: 15,438 Region Association: South East States ![]() |
I have a 1973 2.0 built to a 2056 running stock fuel injection. I am running points and I have verified the dwell and timing are correct. The air temperature sensor on the throttle body is disconnected due to it causing the engine to hunt excessively at idle. The valve were set less than 500 miles ago.
The car starts and runs fine on initial start. It at times has a little hesitation on acceleration due to the wear on the TPS board I think. As the engine warms up into the normal range, I experience a significant loss of power. The temp never goes past the "M" on the temp gauge. There is never any pinging. But there is just no instant response to pressing the accelerator that is present when the engine is cool. At times pushing the accelerator results in little or no engine response for a brief period and the engine almost stalls. I have checked numerous times for vacuum leaks, lose wires, and made sure the grounds are good. Checked the plugs and it does not appear to be running rich or lean. I tried to calibrate the TPS according to the Pelican article but never really got the readings as indicated in the article. I am going to go back through it one more time but I need some suggestions as to what I should check next? |
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Mblizzard |
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#2
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,033 Joined: 28-January 13 From: Knoxville Tn Member No.: 15,438 Region Association: South East States ![]() |
Well I am getting closer to the ranges Chris suggested and I just keep findind more power! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)
Making small adjustments and driving for a bit then adjusting again as suggested. I am really impressed with how much cooler and more powerful the car is now that it is not constantly lean. Not sure the AF meter will be a permeant gauge but it will stay for the time being. I think now I am getting close to getting the performance out of the 2056 build that I wanted. The thing that I learned is that very small adjustments in the MPS can have a huge impact on the mixture. I was making way too large changes when trying to do it by trial and error. Still have a small idle hunt issue as the engine goes very lean for a moment and slows but the goes back to rich and runs well. Will have to think about that one. |
ChrisFoley |
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#3
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I am Tangerine Racing ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 7,986 Joined: 29-January 03 From: Bolton, CT Member No.: 209 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
Well I am getting closer to the ranges Chris suggested and I just keep findind more power! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) Making small adjustments and driving for a bit then adjusting again as suggested. I am really impressed with how much cooler and more powerful the car is now that it is not constantly lean. Not sure the AF meter will be a permeant gauge but it will stay for the time being. I think now I am getting close to getting the performance out of the 2056 build that I wanted. The thing that I learned is that very small adjustments in the MPS can have a huge impact on the mixture. I was making way too large changes when trying to do it by trial and error. Still have a small idle hunt issue as the engine goes very lean for a moment and slows but the goes back to rich and runs well. Will have to think about that one. Do you know that there are 3 adjustment screws? Do you have a hollow hex tool to hold the outer diaphragm screw from turning while you turn the slotted inner screw? The plug on the end of the housing is the third adjustment screw. It sets mixture at WOT after the other adjustments are completed. |
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