No start/pertronix Options

[drbill]

Well, I decided to do a major service on this car. 1974 2.0. I've adjusted the valves, replaced the spark plugs NGK BP5ES, gapped to 0.028, replaced the distributor cap, rotor, spark plug wires and installed a Pertronix ignitor.
I've double checked to make sure HT leads attached for proper firing order, battery is charged. I removed #4 plug wire and plug to check for spark: got spark.

Any help? What's a logical sequence to troubleshoot?
Thanks,
Bill (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[Java2570]

I think the Hot Spark is a Chinese knock off but it's a similar product. I've not used one to see if there's a difference but some folks here run them with good success.

To OP: make doubly sure that your wire connectors that go to the coil are crimped well and that you have a good ground. Also, you will need to retime after installing
the Pertronix.....it will change your timing. I've had the exact same issue and had
to advance my dizzy a bit to get it to start. It is possible to fry the module by hooking it up backwards and also by leaving your ignition on for extended periods.
I've been using Pertronix for about 7 years with no issues.

[drbill]

I think the Hot Spark is a Chinese knock off but it's a similar product. I've not used one to see if there's a difference but some folks here run them with good success.

To OP: make doubly sure that your wire connectors that go to the coil are crimped well and that you have a good ground. Also, you will need to retime after installing
the Pertronix.....it will change your timing. I've had the exact same issue and had
to advance my dizzy a bit to get it to start. It is possible to fry the module by hooking it up backwards and also by leaving your ignition on for extended periods.
I've been using Pertronix for about 7 years with no issues.

Thanks, guys. All connections are okay. I think it's a timing issue. I've been going through the Haynes manual and the PP tech article. Jim T. has an addendum to that article about moving the dizzy so that the rotor arm is pointing approx 12deg off the longitudinal axis of the engine. Mine points right at the inspection hole: way off.

So, a few questions.
1. Need to be at TDC #1 to do this. Compression stroke. I'm a little confused about this. Here's what I did to find TDC on compression: removed #1 spark plug and inserted some 1/4 inch fuel line. Rotated engine by turning the rear wheel. Had ear up to end of the fuel line and as the rotor approached the notch in dizzy, could feel puff of air hit my ear, so that means compression, right? Rotating engine one complete turn puts #1 at TDC, but exhaust stroke and #3 at TDC compression stroke, right?
So, if at TDC #1 based on the marks on the fan, the flywheel and rotor being pointed at the notch on dizzy, it's always on compression, correct?

2. Once I'm sure that TDC #1 is achieved, it need to pull the dizzy up enough to rotate it so the rotor points at this 12 deg angle. Where the heck is the screw that holds the clamping plate to the block?

3. If I lift the dizzy to rotate it, do I need new o-rings?

Bill (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)