No start/pertronix Options

[drbill]

Well, I decided to do a major service on this car. 1974 2.0. I've adjusted the valves, replaced the spark plugs NGK BP5ES, gapped to 0.028, replaced the distributor cap, rotor, spark plug wires and installed a Pertronix ignitor.
I've double checked to make sure HT leads attached for proper firing order, battery is charged. I removed #4 plug wire and plug to check for spark: got spark.

Any help? What's a logical sequence to troubleshoot?
Thanks,
Bill (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[Java2570]

I think the Hot Spark is a Chinese knock off but it's a similar product. I've not used one to see if there's a difference but some folks here run them with good success.

To OP: make doubly sure that your wire connectors that go to the coil are crimped well and that you have a good ground. Also, you will need to retime after installing
the Pertronix.....it will change your timing. I've had the exact same issue and had
to advance my dizzy a bit to get it to start. It is possible to fry the module by hooking it up backwards and also by leaving your ignition on for extended periods.
I've been using Pertronix for about 7 years with no issues.

[drbill]

I think the Hot Spark is a Chinese knock off but it's a similar product. I've not used one to see if there's a difference but some folks here run them with good success.

To OP: make doubly sure that your wire connectors that go to the coil are crimped well and that you have a good ground. Also, you will need to retime after installing
the Pertronix.....it will change your timing. I've had the exact same issue and had
to advance my dizzy a bit to get it to start. It is possible to fry the module by hooking it up backwards and also by leaving your ignition on for extended periods.
I've been using Pertronix for about 7 years with no issues.

Thanks, guys. All connections are okay. I think it's a timing issue. I've been going through the Haynes manual and the PP tech article. Jim T. has an addendum to that article about moving the dizzy so that the rotor arm is pointing approx 12deg off the longitudinal axis of the engine. Mine points right at the inspection hole: way off.

So, a few questions.
1. Need to be at TDC #1 to do this. Compression stroke. I'm a little confused about this. Here's what I did to find TDC on compression: removed #1 spark plug and inserted some 1/4 inch fuel line. Rotated engine by turning the rear wheel. Had ear up to end of the fuel line and as the rotor approached the notch in dizzy, could feel puff of air hit my ear, so that means compression, right? Rotating engine one complete turn puts #1 at TDC, but exhaust stroke and #3 at TDC compression stroke, right?
So, if at TDC #1 based on the marks on the fan, the flywheel and rotor being pointed at the notch on dizzy, it's always on compression, correct?

2. Once I'm sure that TDC #1 is achieved, it need to pull the dizzy up enough to rotate it so the rotor points at this 12 deg angle. Where the heck is the screw that holds the clamping plate to the block?

3. If I lift the dizzy to rotate it, do I need new o-rings?

Bill (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

[Mblizzard]

I think the Hot Spark is a Chinese knock off but it's a similar product. I've not used one to see if there's a difference but some folks here run them with good success.

To OP: make doubly sure that your wire connectors that go to the coil are crimped well and that you have a good ground. Also, you will need to retime after installing
the Pertronix.....it will change your timing. I've had the exact same issue and had
to advance my dizzy a bit to get it to start. It is possible to fry the module by hooking it up backwards and also by leaving your ignition on for extended periods.
I've been using Pertronix for about 7 years with no issues.

Thanks, guys. All connections are okay. I think it's a timing issue. I've been going through the Haynes manual and the PP tech article. Jim T. has an addendum to that article about moving the dizzy so that the rotor arm is pointing approx 12deg off the longitudinal axis of the engine. Mine points right at the inspection hole: way off.

So, a few questions.
1. Need to be at TDC #1 to do this. Compression stroke. I'm a little confused about this. Here's what I did to find TDC on compression: removed #1 spark plug and inserted some 1/4 inch fuel line. Rotated engine by turning the rear wheel. Had ear up to end of the fuel line and as the rotor approached the notch in dizzy, could feel puff of air hit my ear, so that means compression, right? Rotating engine one complete turn puts #1 at TDC, but exhaust stroke and #3 at TDC compression stroke, right?
So, if at TDC #1 based on the marks on the fan, the flywheel and rotor being pointed at the notch on dizzy, it's always on compression, correct?

2. Once I'm sure that TDC #1 is achieved, it need to pull the dizzy up enough to rotate it so the rotor points at this 12 deg angle. Where the heck is the screw that holds the clamping plate to the block?

3. If I lift the dizzy to rotate it, do I need new o-rings?

Bill (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

This can be tough! As a suggestion, if you have not done so, pull all 4 plugs it makes engine rotation so much easier.

First, before you change anything, are you sure that you are viewing the correct mark on the impeller? TDC should display a "0" in the v notch like this



Remember the impeller makes two revolutions for one turn of the dizzy. If you are at TDC on #1 your rotor should be pointed at #1 as shown below. Which should be in the general area if the inspection hole. If I remember correctly, the 12 degrees refers to the orientation of the distributor drive gear not the rotor.



If the rotor is in the general area of #1 then you likely don't need to rotate the dizzy. If the rotor is pointing at #3 the you are off.

Because the car ran before the change, I would think that it would be best get it running again before changing anything else like pulling the dizzy.

Once you are sure that you are at TDC, regardless of where the rotor is pointing verify that the wires are attached to the cap in the correct firing order 1, 4, 3, 2. If they are not in that order then place them correctly.

Now at this point the car should be in a position to start. If the rotor was not pointing at #1 and you moved wires then you may have to move the dizzy to get it to start. Sometimes it is best to get someone to start the car while someone else rotates the dizzy.

If it runs and you moved the wires then at that point you can decide if you want to pull the dizzy to get the rotor to point at #1 as shown in the photo.

On the 2.0, the vacuum advance can on the dizzy blocks the hold down nut. If you have to pull the dizzy, you will need to loosen the 10 mm hex bolt and rotate the dizzy so the the vacuum can is facing toward the rear of the engine to get at the 13 mm hold down nut. If you remove the dizzy the o rings will be fine.