A vapor lock issue?, Starting after 30 minutes or so of sitting Options

[boxsterfan]

So on my 74 2.0L D-Jet, my car normally behaves this way on cold start:

1. Starts right up and idles high while cold
2. As it gets warmed up, the idle "hunts" between 0 RPM and 1200 RPM and can occasionally die when pulling up to a stop sign (you might have to blip the throttle).
3. After she warms up, she idles perfect at 900-950 RPM.

The problem:

1. Car is warmed up driving to a store (idling perfect 900-950 RPM)
2. Go into store for 30 minutes
3. Start car (starts for a second but then dies if you didn't give it any gas)
4. Turn key off
5. Turn key right back on and it doesn't want to start (just cranks). But if you give it gas while cranking you can get her to start....almost like push starting the motor and popping clutch).

Note: My fuel pump is in the front. Stainless steel lines in the tunnel.

Am I still experience vapor lock?
Failing CHTS (also related to idle hunting)
Other?

[Tom]

The thermal conductivity of aluminum is about three times that of iron. Basically this means it takes iron three times as long to heat up and three times as long to cool off as aluminum. All of the fins on the heads are there for a reason. The engineers wanted to get the heat gone as soon as possible. Because of this, the existing ECU has an issue with keeping the mixture right for a car that is warmed up, then shut off for a short period, then started back up. The cylinder (iron) is much warmer than the head ( where the sensor is that tells the ECU what mixture changes to make) and would like a kind of lean mixture. The head being much cooler has the CHT send a signal to the ECU requesting a rich mixture. Now you have a kind of flooded condition. I believe the engineers knew this and that is why the owners manual says to fully depress the pedal prior to cranking. Pretty much what we all learned to do on carbed cars when they got flooded!
Tom