Leak Free Type IV, Pipe Dream? |
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Leak Free Type IV, Pipe Dream? |
thomasotten |
Aug 15 2004, 06:44 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,547 Joined: 16-November 03 From: San Antonio, Texas Member No.: 1,349 |
I was replacing a motor mount on my engine as I prepare to stab it back into the car. I got my hands full of oily grease crap. It just got me wondering about the possibility of a "leak free" motor. I started to look for leaks, and you know my engine didn't have any dripping leaks, it just gets coated with oil nevertheless. I know the real gushers are the pushrod tubes seals, and the oil cooler seals. But mine are fine, and my car doesn't drip any large amounts of oil. Obviously I have a small leak (or several leaks) that cause the engine, and engine compartment to get coated with gunk. Why the heck are these engines so dirty?
As I start to consider rebuilding, I want to know if it is possible to build the engine so it doens't leak. Period. Any tips? |
silver2.0 |
Aug 15 2004, 07:47 PM
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#2
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Member Group: Members Posts: 61 Joined: 25-February 04 From: Fairfield, WA (spokane area) Member No.: 1,715 |
Mine's dry. Use these ingredients:
-casehalves: Loctite 518 (new technology) or Permatex 3H Aviation Form-a-gasket (old tech) -sumpplate(s): Hylomar 71285, now avail from Valco. Awesome stuff - a must have! http://www.valco-cp.com/Hylomar.htm -sumpnuts/washers: Permatex Ultra-grey, Loctite 5699, 3-bond silver or grey (Cummins p/n 3823494 - cause I like the small tapered metal nozzle). All these, essentially the same product, readily available, and are much more oil-resistant than other RTV's. -headstuds in case: Blue loctite 242 (w/ case-savers, which are essentially inserts with enclosed bottoms). You only need this as a convenience to keep the studs in place. -headstuds/nuts/washers in head: Ultra-grey/5699/3-bond silver. Small bead under washer only. -case studs/nuts/washers: Ultra-grey/5699/3-bond silver. Small bead under washer only. -rockerstand studs: 242 -valve covers: 3H, gasket to cover only. Let cure overnight before starting engine. -push rod tubes: good quality seals only. -fuel pump: hylomar -gen/alt stand: hylomar -oilcooler/adapter: good quality seals only -oilpump to case: hylomar -oilpump to cover: hylomar - thin coat. Do not use RTV which, unlike Hylomar, will squeeze into (and plug) the return groove. -full flow fittings: Loctite 567PST high-temp thread sealant (green 292/sleeve retainer is overkill, but thank you for sharing Gene). -oil filler type 3 and 4 (+universal case): hylomar -oil pressure switch: Loctite 567PST high-temp thread sealant. -gallery plugs: Loctite 567PST high-temp thread sealant and lock per B. Hoovers detailed instructions. -pulley sand seal holder to case: 3H. It seals, doesn't harden, and still allows easy removal to change the seal. -cam plug (metal): Permatex high-temp form-a-gasket #1572. Awesome sh*t! Messy, stains fingers! And lets not forget, -jugs to case: Ultra-grey/5699/3-bond silver |
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