? about 6V Ford Relay Options

[AvalonFal]

Got a 6V, 3 post Ford relay from ebay for my "74 2.0L Wired it up per the many threads on the subject on this and other boards.

My understanding of its operation is that 1 large post always has 12V (from battery) and the other 2 posts (small "S" and the other large one back to the starter) have 12V when the key is ON. Is this correct??

I'm not getting 12V at the large post that runs back to the starter. I'm thinking the Ford relay is defective.

Any thoughts from Ford relay users??

Paul

[stugray]

Any description of why you want to use a relay to run a relay would be helpful. My willingness to believe is high, my understanding is low.

I joked about this on a previous "how to wire an extra solenoid" thread - nobody got it.

Yes you are using a relay to drive another relay.
The solenoid mechanically moves the starter gear to engage AND closes contacts to provide voltage to the starter, so it IS a relay.

The starter Solenoid requires > 8 Amps to drive the mechanism to closure.
The keyed ignition switch is stressed when you turn the key and Arcs when you release it.
This causes premature wear on the ignition contacts.
The current also drops as the wiring ages and the numerous connections in the harness oxidize.

So the solution is to use a secondary relay to provide the ~9 Amps to the solenoid instead of the ignition switch.

These secondary relays only require < 0.5 Amps to engage so wont tear up the ignition contacts as quickly.
And you are not running the ~8 AMPs to the front of the car & back.

[worn]

Any description of why you want to use a relay to run a relay would be helpful. My willingness to believe is high, my understanding is low.

I joked about this on a previous "how to wire an extra solenoid" thread - nobody got it.

Yes you are using a relay to drive another relay.
The solenoid mechanically moves the starter gear to engage AND closes contacts to provide voltage to the starter, so it IS a relay.

The starter Solenoid requires > 8 Amps to drive the mechanism to closure.
The keyed ignition switch is stressed when you turn the key and Arcs when you release it.
This causes premature wear on the ignition contacts.
The current also drops as the wiring ages and the numerous connections in the harness oxidize.

So the solution is to use a secondary relay to provide the ~9 Amps to the solenoid instead of the ignition switch.

These secondary relays only require < 0.5 Amps to engage so wont tear up the ignition contacts as quickly.
And you are not running the ~8 AMPs to the front of the car & back.

Ah, yes. But relays delivering 8 amps are fairly thick on the ground. Are we going for an antique 6 v design to help in the event of low battery?
I am working on getting around to working on adding switch on relays myself. Easier to replace than the switch. Also I got a whole bunch of them surplus. Not necessarily what I need tho.