Brake Troubleshooting, PMB all around Options

[OU8AVW]

So I'm getting to bleeding my brakes. I have replaced every item with parts from PMB. That's all the hard lines, soft lines and all calipers and pads. The installation was pretty easy but I'm not beyond making mistakes. The stuff has been sitting a while, installed with no fluid in the system.

Please note that I've done this on quite a few VWs so bleeding brakes is not foreign to me. I just did this exact process on my '89 Westy with good results.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sheeplove.gif)
I can get a steady stream of fluid through all bleeders both with a vacuum pump and also with pedal action
I see no signs of leaks
I get no pedal and it seams that the pedal won't actuate any of the calipers (More on this) with normal action.
This morning I went though all the calipers and moved a considerable amount of fluid though them by pumping the pedal with similar results until....
I pumped the brakes a bunch and finally got action on the front brakes but then they were stuck. No action on the rears.

I did not bench bleed the master. I did crack the hoses on the master until I got fluid from each of them.
I have speed bleeders installed, so far I am not a fan.

What could I have messed up in the install?
Why are these things sticking?
Next step?
Thanks.....

[Johny Blackstain]

Curious, how does one bleed the proportioning valve? Also, how does it fit in the bleed schedule (farthest to nearest)?

[ChrisFoley]

Curious, how does one bleed the proportioning valve? Also, how does it fit in the bleed schedule (farthest to nearest)?

There is zero need to bleed the proportioning valve separately from the rear calipers.
Anyone who tells you otherwise is simply perpetuating an old wives tale.
The exit side of the valve is at the top, therefore any air (a tiny volume actually) in the valve body will leave as soon as fluid moves toward a rear caliper.
That's my humble opinion. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

The bleeding method we follow in my shop requires someone in the car to pump the pedal and someone under the car to open the valves one at a time.
We pump the pedal several times to compress the air bubbles, before opening a valve - with pressure on the pedal to move the fluid.
The pedal is held down until the bleed valve has been re-closed - repeat the procedure until no air comes out with the fluid.

I've never had good luck with speed bleeders on a dry system and I've never had good luck with a vacuum bleeder.