Under cowl A/C unit design input thread and gauging interest, replacing behr with burrr! |
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Under cowl A/C unit design input thread and gauging interest, replacing behr with burrr! |
Chris914n6 |
Jul 23 2014, 08:24 PM
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#1
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Jackstands are my life. Group: Members Posts: 3,336 Joined: 14-March 03 From: Las Vegas, NV Member No.: 431 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Dusted off another one of my projects from when I first built my waterpumper. Heater and A/C replacing the factory fresh air blower unit.
History. I built the unit using a tube/fin core from my Uncle's buddy Dave @ Hotrod Air. HRA went under in the recession and so did the company that actually made the cores. Oddly enough this is a benefit despite having made some really nice wood vacuum forming bucks. The good news. For version 2 I went with separate heater and evap cores. The heater is off the shelf, I just need to trim the tubes. The evap I'm having made by a company I met at the 2013 SEMA show and is modern plate type. Blower is a 3 speed. The nitty gritty. Uses stock controls and stock air deflector boxes. Hoses run Pass side like DPD/VPC. I did design a setup for modern controls and deflector boxes with a separate side vent path, but it's a bit complicated to make. I have plans to offer 3 versions. Model B - A/C and heat for us waterpumpers. Runs recirc through the heater tube holes so no cutting. Unit is too tight of a fit for fresh air. I'll have an optional drainage piece for those that don't seal the grill. Model A - A/C only for aircooled cars. Because the heater tube holes are being used for heat, air intake will be from the grill opening. You could cut a 2.5" hole in the cowl for recirc instead if you wanted or use just one heat exchanger. Model H - Heater only for waterpumpers. Same unit as the A/C only except that recirc is possible through the heater hose holes OR model B with no evap, haven't decided yet. In the kit - Main unit, mounting brackets, air hoses & clamps, blower wiring, expansion valve, instructions. Options - Cabin filter. Grill water drain. The other pieces... Condensers- it depends on the radiator you using and what you can make fit, no point in me trying to keep an inventory. The exception could be a replacement to the DPD/VPC Condenser unit for air-cooled cars, I haven't gotten past doodles yet. Receiver-driers of the universal type can be had on Ebay for under $15 shipped, I'll pick one out for you, same with the pressure switch. Hoses, too many variations and too much overhead for me, but Vegas has 3 places that will build them on your car so I assume that's practically everywhere. Prices trend $100-$150. Hard lines- Research has spec'd it as 6063 aluminum. DPD/VPC used hard lines along the rocker and up the wheel wells. Heater hose- nothing special about it but it's long and 5/8"ID. Prices... about the same as the Hotrod kits. Manufacturing time is unknown and the biggest factor of course. I will have to buy 50+ evap cores to make this happen, so even if you are a year or more away from buying one speak up. Any feedback and who wants one? |
Chris914n6 |
Oct 9 2014, 02:31 PM
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#2
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Jackstands are my life. Group: Members Posts: 3,336 Joined: 14-March 03 From: Las Vegas, NV Member No.: 431 Region Association: Southwest Region |
It's moving at the speed of life....
I should know better than to make plans for a full moon weekend. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif) Then it was 120F in the "workshop" most days this summer. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) But I did get a nice cardboard mockup built and fitted which helped finalize the design, before all the little mods took their toll, so the pic I wanted to show off with the hoses and stuff attached didn't happen as the box just wasn't solid enough. It just made more sense time wise to move on to the production unit. So that's where it's at. I've spent the past several weeks going back and forth with the manufacturer (in China of course) about getting an Evap to do testing with. They say it's going to take 2 months if I order 1 or 50 so I should buy 50 lol. Other thing is I don't have a running car (planned for this winter) or upcoming hot weather to test with before the hot weather. Jist of the B and H designs are AC and heater hoses run inside the pass heater duct/long. Air inlet from drivers heater tube hole with a provision for a 5"x5" air filter (cut up home filter). Comp to Condenser hose outside the pass long as it's generally a better route to the trunk condenser. Heater valve attached to the pass stock control box and uses stock heater lever cable. Model A also has the hoses attach on the pass side like the under dash stuff so with the possible need of a hose extension or 2 it will play nicely. In case you're wondering, this is a half cut pointing nose up. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/lh3.googleusercontent.com-431-1412886704.1.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/lh6.googleusercontent.com-431-1412886705.2.jpg) |
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