Full Restoration Hurdles & Advice, What slowed you down? What did you encounter that you didn't predict? Options

[stevegm]

I am starting a full restoration of a '71 914-4 (Build thread - http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...242895&hl=). 914World has been incredibly helpful. I thought it might be good to have a thread where those with experience doing full restorations could post about the major hurdles they encountered along the way. Knowing what to expect ahead of time could really help others avoid the big issues.

What advice can you share?
What problems slowed you down the most?
What challenges stumped you for a while?
What hurdles did you not see coming?


ADVICE:
1. Buy pre-formed chassis panels from Restoration Design; and brace your chassis very well if your having to do welding work.
2. Figure out what your going to do about the wiring harness before you take it out. And don't ever cut wiring.
3. Have Eric at PMB rebuld your calipers. Will save a lot of trouble.
4. Buy a complete rubber kit (914rubber). It will save money versus piecing it together.
5. Start collecting replacement parts early, since they arent' always available when you need them.
6. Get the engine and transmission (Dr. Evil Clinic) rebuilt well in advance of completion.
7. Label and photograph everything.
8. Label all bolts. Bolts seem to be a recurring issue that causes grief.
9. Locate a shop in advance and make it clear when you want the car back.
10. Find a plater in advance for all the nuts, bolts and cad plated stuff.
11. Know your limits. If you have a deadline don't try to teach yourself to do things in days and weeks that others have spend years learning. Ya, sometimes it works out but if your serious about a deadline what if it doesn't.
12. Be prepared to write big checks. Oh, and have at least 5k in the bank over and above your highest estimate incase things go sideways.
13. Take, and organize, hundreds of pictures as you disassemble. So you
remember where everything went and how.. especially the
heater vent cables and where wires go through the front cowl bulkhead.
14. Plan on spending lots of hours on Ebay searching for parts at good prices if
you can't find them here.
15. Draw diagrams of where electrical wires come off and which colors go where; Especially the tail lights and instruments.
16. Blast first. Strip the car, brace it, put it on the rotisserie, cut the rust out and then have the car soda blasted. That will help you find the spots you missed, make it easier to weld and prevent a major sticking point.

[wndsnd]

I agree wholely with George here. Bracing is so important. Buy all the prefab you can, but be prepared for doing some fabricating yourself. Especially around the bottom of the windshield and top of the front fenders near the back of the hood line. Bottom of doors. And just front of the doors.

You can do it, be patient, make templates out of thinner malleable steel, cardboard, or whatever you have. Get some good cutting tools. I kept using a pneumatic scroll saw thing, and cutting wheels on a grinder. After my project was finished I got the chance to try electric shears. For some reason I discounted them initially because I thought they would distort the panels as they cut. I was wrong. You can stencil out a piece and cut through like butter and not worry about all the dust. If your budget and garage space allows get a plasma cutter.

Turn down the voltage on your welder. Most of the car is 18 guage and 16 guage. The 18 is thin stuff and it easily burns through. Practice on scrap and then go at it.

I did everything I could from the top and sides. But working on jack stands made welding under the car almost impossible. I left the last underneath welds to the end, and when the truck came to bring to the paint shop, I did a detour to a buddies shop where he had a lift and we did the final underneath welds there. Even with all that, Chris Foley found a coup!e of spots I missed because I could not get to them and he found a way to get it done. Its OK to call in help when you need it. Most people are really helpful and empathetic when you get most done that you can, and then get in over your head.

Basically all the quality panels come from Restoration Design unless you are lucky enough to find some NOS panels. It is OK to buy panels and cut pieces off for what you need . It might seem wasteful, but saving to fab is good and someone might need the piece you do not.

Also, I found one of those vibrating cutting tools was perfect on interior pan stripping of the tar and undercoat seam seal.. You can waste a lot of time using other methods, but that stuff is tough and that tool makes short order out of it.

Good luck and dive in. It is a great rewarding project and you will get good help here from ones who know.

John