1.8 L-Jet to 2.0 L-Jet. Any advice? Options

[mapguy]

Howdy,

I have just torn down a bone stock '74 1.8 L-Jet from another 914 with plans to build it back to stock. Plan is to drive my 914 with this engine while I build the original 2.0 the way I want it. I get experience building my first type 4, and get my teener back where it belongs. On the road.

I have the parts available to swap out the crank, rods, and P/C from a '76 2.0 to make it a 2.0 L-Jet. I'm very tempted to do this, as I rarely turn down cheap horsepower! No replacement for displacement, right?

Any land mines I should look out for? Main concern for me is the stock L-Jet system. I understand I might have to tune the MAF for the extra displacement, but I can't find anything discouraging me otherwise. I found an article that details a 3-step process for MAF tuning, but am too lazy to look up the link. Do tell if you know something I don't.

More details:

As implied, stock '74 L-Jet system
Stock '74 1.8 heads (41x34, I believe)
web cam 142/lifters
necessary machine work
Cylinders honed and new rings (I have a set of 94s in excellent condition)
Full re-seal on engine and all peripherals
New fuel lines, vacuum lines, etc etc...

One other thing, I haven't built many engines, but all the ones I've been involved in pop through the intake when first firing them off, and one in particular did it several times before finally lighting off (my old bus engine was a PITA to get running first time). Won't this be dangerous for the MAF on first start? All my experience is with carbed engines. Does this just not happen on FI engines?

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

[mapguy]

Thanks all!!

Is the 142 a hydro cam? I'd stick with solid lifters, myself...

According to the Web Cam site, this is a stock solid lifter grind - http://www.webcamshafts.com/pages/automobi...693_002437.html

I like web cam quality, and decided to pay a bit more for a quality cam and lifters in this one.

I have already done this. It works fine.

Thanks Clay!! This is exactly what I was trolling for. Thanks for the advice on the AFM and the bus intake. I'll start scrounging for one, and not tuning the AFM will save some time.

Set the engine on the timing mark for 7.5 degrees. Using points, connect a test light to the point lead, and the other end to the positive battery terminal. Turn the distributor until the light just goes out. That will set the distributor in the correct spot. Make sure you have the wires on right, and you shouldn't have to worry about the timing.

Interesting... I have always set the static timing with a timing light and set it to when the light just comes on for #1. I will give this procedure a shot this go-round and will give plenty of rum to Jobu.