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mapguy |
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#1
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Freelance Generalist ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 92 Joined: 31-January 14 From: Inland Empire, CA Member No.: 16,945 Region Association: Southern California ![]() |
Howdy,
I have just torn down a bone stock '74 1.8 L-Jet from another 914 with plans to build it back to stock. Plan is to drive my 914 with this engine while I build the original 2.0 the way I want it. I get experience building my first type 4, and get my teener back where it belongs. On the road. I have the parts available to swap out the crank, rods, and P/C from a '76 2.0 to make it a 2.0 L-Jet. I'm very tempted to do this, as I rarely turn down cheap horsepower! No replacement for displacement, right? Any land mines I should look out for? Main concern for me is the stock L-Jet system. I understand I might have to tune the MAF for the extra displacement, but I can't find anything discouraging me otherwise. I found an article that details a 3-step process for MAF tuning, but am too lazy to look up the link. Do tell if you know something I don't. More details: As implied, stock '74 L-Jet system Stock '74 1.8 heads (41x34, I believe) web cam 142/lifters necessary machine work Cylinders honed and new rings (I have a set of 94s in excellent condition) Full re-seal on engine and all peripherals New fuel lines, vacuum lines, etc etc... One other thing, I haven't built many engines, but all the ones I've been involved in pop through the intake when first firing them off, and one in particular did it several times before finally lighting off (my old bus engine was a PITA to get running first time). Won't this be dangerous for the MAF on first start? All my experience is with carbed engines. Does this just not happen on FI engines? Any advice is greatly appreciated. |
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ClayPerrine |
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#2
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Life's been good to me so far..... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 16,316 Joined: 11-September 03 From: Hurst, TX. Member No.: 1,143 Region Association: NineFourteenerVille ![]() ![]() |
Make sure you static time the ignition to prevent the pop through the intake.
Set the engine on the timing mark for 7.5 degrees. Using points, connect a test light to the point lead, and the other end to the positive battery terminal. Turn the distributor until the light just goes out. That will set the distributor in the correct spot. Make sure you have the wires on right, and you shouldn't have to worry about the timing. |
type47 |
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#3
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Viermeister ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,254 Joined: 7-August 03 From: Vienna, VA Member No.: 994 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() |
Set the engine on the timing mark for 7.5 degrees. ... What's the theory behind which/where to time the engine? L-Jet is set at 7.5, D-Jet is set at 27 (ish?). If you put L-Jet on a 2L, you wouldn't use the 27 for a 2L? If you put D-Jet on a 1.8, would you use 27 degrees? So the timing degree is induction dependent? If I put a CIS system on a 2L, would I time it at 27 degrees? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K_A7rPcvYCM |
pilothyer |
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#4
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Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 838 Joined: 21-May 08 From: N. Alabama Member No.: 9,080 Region Association: South East States ![]() |
Set the engine on the timing mark for 7.5 degrees. ... What's the theory behind which/where to time the engine? L-Jet is set at 7.5, D-Jet is set at 27 (ish?). If you put L-Jet on a 2L, you wouldn't use the 27 for a 2L? If you put D-Jet on a 1.8, would you use 27 degrees? So the timing degree is induction dependent? If I put a CIS system on a 2L, would I time it at 27 degrees? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K_A7rPcvYCM The Timing for the L Jet 1.8 is set at only 850 RPM thus the 7.5 BTDC Set it at that and then check it at 3500 RPM You will be close to or right on 27 degrees BTDC. It is really a matter of what rpms full advance comes in. |
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