2270 Build, Need advise Options

[pilothyer]

I am interested in building a 2270 engine. From what I can see I will need a stroker crank with a 78 mm throw. I am concerned about which rod to choose. I have seen stroker cranks with VW type 1 journals as well as 2.0 liter and chevy. I have noticed variations in rod lengths as well. I am in need of some advise on a good, proven combination. I know there are many good engine builders on his forum that could share their knowledge on this subject so please do...............Thanks

[Jake Raby]

Jake, any competent mechanic learns early on that matching parts is the key to efficiency.

And some never do.

I'm retired now so I learned that long before you built your first engine. And my teacher was a guy who learned that same lesson before I was born, so no news there.

I have guys that have been doing this longer than I have been alive attend my Porsche engine classes every month, somewhere across North America.

Getting the combinations right? That takes longer, no question, and that's exactly the question posed by the original poster about optimum combinations for a 2270.

The issue is the constantly changing factors that impact the engine. Fuel, oil, environmental conditions and etc make it impossible to have a perfect combination thats perfect for everyone for years and years. As I have finally based my engines from one combination for 2015, and increased displacement to 2.4L, for all, we have had to take an exceptional amount of time to develop one well oiled machine, but cam CR, and head alterations still remain a variable that each engine must be altered.

So you're the expert, do you have any suggestions for him?

78.4, 5.325" rod, KB 96mm pistons, Hastings rings. Web 163/86B cam on 104* LC, ground on a 1.065" BC, and he can start his valve train geometry with a 27.1Cm pushrod. Thats a generic combo that assembles easily, and with a 180CFM 76% head will make 140HP at 9:1 CR.

Thats the combo that I first started using in the mid 90s with custom parts, that are now so generic that they can be bought on eBay, after I was ripped off and the parts when to China. Thats what happens.

I mean other than just buying parts from your store?

What store? I don't have a store, its been a year since I had a store, I got tired of dealing with people and sold the store to LN. I went back to only building engines, and primarily doing R&D work for other companies, or for new products. I've submitted 4 Patent Applications this year alone, the most recent was Monday, and it was for yet another special tool. Parts aren't my thing, and I never should have created the store, because it held me back more than anything. Thats water under the bridge~

You're right, Dave, two different things that are the same. If someone's paying a whole lot of money for more horsepower one has to assume they're going to use it. Is any other assumption reasonable?

Use it, certainly, but for how long? Its not reasonable to drive around at WOT on the street in today's world, and thats the reason why the engine won't ever get heat soaked. I did the testing of my 3 liter engine up and down the side of a mountain near me that has a long, continuous 5% grade, and I did the WOT runs in 5th gear with a tall tire and a ZD 5th gear, for max load. On a 90 degree day we couldn't even get the CHT to pass 350F for more than 45 seconds before we'd crest the hill and the temps would drop. These engines don't begin to heat soak till 375-400F and with Nickies not until 425F.

If you have twice the horsepower (and use it) you'll generate twice the heat, meaning you need to dissipate it. No question there either, right?

Nope. Let's say that your engine produces 200HP @ 6,000 RPM, which is basically double the factory 2.0/914 output. Where can you effectively drive that car in the USA and maintain 6,000 RPM continuously?

Not going to create enough heat to hurt anything? Perhaps, since no one's melting down Jake's engines.

You'll kill yourself, before you find out.

But that in no way means they generate less heat, as long as they burn fuel that potential's all still there, they apparently just aren't being used hard enough to hurt anything.

Is 30 minutes at WOT continuous, with a 9,000 RPM at 14:1while making north of 185HP from an 1800cc T4 considered "being used hard enough"? That engine never gets to 400CHT and it only touched 400 on the CHT gauge once, that was a day at Road Atlanta when track temps were 136 in the middle of July.

And of course any marginal additional heat generated is being managed, so good job Jake and God Bless Joe Locicero.

I seldom build a 914 engine that uses the DTM system designed by Joe, even though we did make a 914 specific version of it. The stock cooling system is fine on engines up to 2.4L without Nickies, and clear to 3 liters with Nickies. Add a single Setrab oil cooler and they are fine eve on the track, to well over 200HP with one set of mods to the blower housing and the cooling fan.