Need alternator advice from SBC V8 guys, Update: I'm kindofanidiot Options

[aircooledboy]

In the final stages of re-assembly after flares & paint. I wired up the alt exactly the way it was when I took it out, and has always been, but I'm not showing any voltage change at the output pole whether the car is running or not. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) I'm running the Renegade serpentine set up with AC on a 350.

I replaced the alt while I had the engine out with a higher amp unit because I've had charging "issues" with the car literally since I got it, (battery would slowly run down over time, and I've have to charge it), so I thought this might fix that. I've had the new one out and bench tested, and it's putting out 13.8v on the test stand. I'm using an alt for a 93 Buick, and historically it's only had the heavy wire from the output to the start, which then goes to the batt, and the lead on the plug which lights the idiot on the dash. When I start the car now, the idiot light goes out, but I'm only showing like 11.8-ish volts at the pole, and that doesn't change whether car on or not. Guy who built alt for me says as far as he knows, you must have 12v to the "red wire on the plug", which was never connected to anything before. After jumping that to 12v, no change. 11.7-ish volts, and car dies if I disconnect batt.

Electrical is always my weak suit. Any ideas? HEEELLLP ME. . . . (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slits.gif)

[drive-ability]

Sorry haven't red everything but since it seems your using the 914 harness and alt light in the dash I would first stab a test light to the wire at the alt connected to the wire connected to the IP alt light. Maybe the resistance / amperage draw is just not to the liking of the CS alternator. Not much to test IMO, At most 3 wires BAT. IGN. and the one I mentioned above.
Set me straight if not reading everything puts my size 12 in my mouth LOL