Ignition switch failures., Ready to wire a switch and button instead. Options

[FourBlades]

I have had several ignition switches fail in m 1973. I am on the third "new" ignition switch in 4 years. I think these are a repro part and not up to the original standards.

What usually happens is either the ACC does not switch on so the fuel pump does not run or the starter does not switch on leaving me stranded.

Are these 3 position switches or just 2?

Does anyone have a diagram for how to wire a switch for the ACC and a starter button? I notice there are 6 terminals on an ignition switch module so I assume this is not simple.

I would keep the key just for unlocking the steering column and maybe rig a second, hidden switch for the fuel pumps.

So far my engine has been very reliable and it has always been electrical problems in the relay board (now thankfully removed by Joe O'Brien from Series9) and the stupid ignition switch that have caused my car to not run.

Thanks,

John

[screenguy914]

Most ign. switch wear and tear is due to current flow in the "Start" or "Crank" position that energizes the starter solenoid. You can reduce ign. switch wear by installing a separate momentary switch (push button, toggle, etc.) to energize the starter solenoid. Use the ignition switch only in the "ON" position to activate all other circuits (fuel pump, ignition, radio, lights, etc.).

Here's a link describing the circuit for a 911 (generic for most cars):
http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars/RemoteStarter.htm

Hope this helps,
Sherwood