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FourBlades |
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From Wreck to Rockin ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,056 Joined: 3-December 07 From: Brevard, FL Member No.: 8,414 Region Association: South East States ![]() ![]() |
I have had several ignition switches fail in m 1973. I am on the third "new" ignition switch in 4 years. I think these are a repro part and not up to the original standards. What usually happens is either the ACC does not switch on so the fuel pump does not run or the starter does not switch on leaving me stranded. Are these 3 position switches or just 2? Does anyone have a diagram for how to wire a switch for the ACC and a starter button? I notice there are 6 terminals on an ignition switch module so I assume this is not simple. I would keep the key just for unlocking the steering column and maybe rig a second, hidden switch for the fuel pumps. So far my engine has been very reliable and it has always been electrical problems in the relay board (now thankfully removed by Joe O'Brien from Series9) and the stupid ignition switch that have caused my car to not run. Thanks, John |
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Bartlett 914 |
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,218 Joined: 30-August 05 From: South Elgin IL Member No.: 4,707 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() |
I think this is a good case for the "hot start relay" A simple relay located by the starter. The ignition switch pulls the relay and the relay contacts engage the starter. Look at the size of the wire that pulls the starter solenoid. It is a pretty big conductor. Your switch needs to handle all this current. Put the load on a cheap relay and save the load on the switch
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