2056 microsquirt, Its alive! Now I have to tune it Options

[peteyd]

I had my car on the road for only two summers until I wanted to get a more reliable engine. I was not too familiar with the microsquirt, or megasquirt system, but when Mark started to offer a kit I knew that it would be a great starting point. I also had followed the progress of McMarks, rwilner and Zachs conversions and figured they had done enough trail blazing that it would be a piece of cake.

I started to piece together my own little manuel of pictures and notes from other threads and came up with my own little DIY powerpoint. So hopefully this thread can benefit others and hopefully these guys dont mind that I am reposting some of their photos.

I didnt just decide to buy the system on a whim though. It all started one night when I was driving home on the highway and I heard a pretty large bang. I had just replaced my oil pressure relief valve with the new tangerine product and thought my engine had just exploded! I pulled over and realized after digging around that my #3 spark plug blew out of the threads. I have a head temp sensor under the plug, so Im thinking that it wasnt turned in all the way and the pressure was too great for the threads to hold the plug.

BTW the pressure relief valve is a great product


That winter I pulled the engine and then the head and put a time-sert in #3



After bolting the heads back up, I noticed that my valve train geometry was off. So at that point I decided to measure and cut custom pushrods for the proper geometry.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aE-TJxlE7Ck


And since I had the engine out, and Chris had just come out with another great engine product, I figured what the Hell, and bought his SS pushrod tubes and installed them.



At this point I had been thinking about McMarks EFI kit seriously, and decided to pull the trigger.

I ordered the kit from Mark @ Original Customs.

I patiently waited and my kit finally came!

Im using the stock 2L plenums and throttle body.

Here is what came in the kit. (photos from Zach) I got the same stuff.

[peteyd]

My next step was to start putting the plenums and the throttle body back on.

Naturally, I had to make them look pretty.



After that I started to lay out the wiring on the top of the engine. It was fairly simple to determine the way it went on there because there was only one wire where the NTC thermister could plug into.

More notes from Mark:

Blue band connectors are for odd numbered cylinders (1 & 3).The thicker fuel harness is meant to run along the back of the engine (flywheel side) just like the stock harness. 
The thinner spark harness (ignition) is meant to run along the front of the motor by the oil filler.  This will keep the spark wires away from the fuel wires.The WBO2 connector is meant to exit the engine bay on the pass. side.Fuses should all be 5A. Coil connectors have a ground wire which should connect to one of the coil mounting bolts.  Ensure a good ground using an ohmmeter.Fuel pump wiring is meant to use the stock wiring.  MS will control the fuel pump relay on the relay board.

I then bolted on the coils by replacing the intake runner nuts with the large coupling nuts provided. Mark conveniently labeled the odd coils (1 & 3) with blue collars.


Photo courtesy of rwilner

He did also mention that if the coils fail to spark, I should try swapping Ignition Input Capture from Rising Edge to Falling Edge (or the reverse) in the ignition setup menu, under Base Ignition Settings. (I have yet to cross this bridge though)