2056 microsquirt, Its alive! Now I have to tune it Options

[peteyd]

I had my car on the road for only two summers until I wanted to get a more reliable engine. I was not too familiar with the microsquirt, or megasquirt system, but when Mark started to offer a kit I knew that it would be a great starting point. I also had followed the progress of McMarks, rwilner and Zachs conversions and figured they had done enough trail blazing that it would be a piece of cake.

I started to piece together my own little manuel of pictures and notes from other threads and came up with my own little DIY powerpoint. So hopefully this thread can benefit others and hopefully these guys dont mind that I am reposting some of their photos.

I didnt just decide to buy the system on a whim though. It all started one night when I was driving home on the highway and I heard a pretty large bang. I had just replaced my oil pressure relief valve with the new tangerine product and thought my engine had just exploded! I pulled over and realized after digging around that my #3 spark plug blew out of the threads. I have a head temp sensor under the plug, so Im thinking that it wasnt turned in all the way and the pressure was too great for the threads to hold the plug.

BTW the pressure relief valve is a great product


That winter I pulled the engine and then the head and put a time-sert in #3



After bolting the heads back up, I noticed that my valve train geometry was off. So at that point I decided to measure and cut custom pushrods for the proper geometry.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aE-TJxlE7Ck


And since I had the engine out, and Chris had just come out with another great engine product, I figured what the Hell, and bought his SS pushrod tubes and installed them.



At this point I had been thinking about McMarks EFI kit seriously, and decided to pull the trigger.

I ordered the kit from Mark @ Original Customs.

I patiently waited and my kit finally came!

Im using the stock 2L plenums and throttle body.

Here is what came in the kit. (photos from Zach) I got the same stuff.

[aircooledtechguy]

One thing that I have found that will cause nothing but problems (and many intermittent problems), is GROUNDS.

Many folks make harnesses that have individual sensors grounded locally at, or near, the sensor. This is convenient, but it often promotes intermittent grounding issues that cause you to chase your tail and bang your head in frustration. Been there; done that and didn't like it!!

For this reason, I add a simple terminal block and have ALL grounds go to a single point. Then I use primary wire and tie it directly to the battery's negative post. This eliminates poor grounding issues permanently.

I also do the same for all power connections for the EFI system whether it be "12V+" or "switched 12V+". This absolutely simplifies things.

Just something I've been doing and have had great success with, FWIW. . .

[jd74914]

For this reason, I add a simple terminal block and have ALL grounds go to a single point. Then I use primary wire and tie it directly to the battery's negative post. This eliminates poor grounding issues permanently.

I also do the same for all power connections for the EFI system whether it be "12V+" or "switched 12V+". This absolutely simplifies things.

Just something I've been doing and have had great success with, FWIW. . .

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

This approach works really well! It's especially helpful on the ground side as it essentially eliminates the possibility of ground loops.