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worn |
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#1
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Winner of the Utah Twisted Joint Award ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,494 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() ![]() |
It seems that a lot of the triple gauge business involves making new holes in the back of the can. I figured I could do that. Especially after watching the threads here over and over. Thanks to all.
My problem was the gauge face. I di not want a simple cut out for the gauges. I wanted it embossed in like stock. So here is what I came up with. ![]() The dies fit in my old cast iron hydraulic press. You can see the bottom plate in the photo. I am having some tears, but generally they are about at the cut out line (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) so maybe they are OK. I found that even with some silversmithing under my belt, I cannot do this by hand. The press makes it flat and even. A coat of high build primer, sanding for flat and trimming and a coat of satin black and I am done I think. Then I need to do some wiring. BTW, I am looking for some balled up otherwise useless harness wires so I can match the wire colors. |
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914forme |
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#2
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Times a wastin', get wrenchin'! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,896 Joined: 24-July 04 From: Dayton, Ohio Member No.: 2,388 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
Oh nice and great job (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif) I'll take one, I need it for my 914-6 restoration.
Now onto lettering. Silkscreening, is the way to go. But the this is how New Vintage started their gauges. |
worn |
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#3
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Winner of the Utah Twisted Joint Award ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,494 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() ![]() |
Oh nice and great job (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif) I'll take one, I need it for my 914-6 restoration. Now onto lettering. Silkscreening, is the way to go. But the this is how New Vintage started their gauges. Well I have my positive and my lamp so I will let you know. Have to screen them flat and then press, cause I am real rusty on silk screening. In my day we cut stencils out of tracing paper and used the ink to hold them on the screen. Do you think that other method is better? |
worn |
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#4
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Winner of the Utah Twisted Joint Award ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,494 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() ![]() |
Oh nice and great job (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif) I'll take one, I need it for my 914-6 restoration. Now onto lettering. Silkscreening, is the way to go. But the this is how New Vintage started their gauges. Well I have my positive and my lamp so I will let you know. Have to screen them flat and then press, cause I am real rusty on silk screening. In my day we cut stencils out of tracing paper and used the ink to hold them on the screen. Do you think that other method is better? I tried two exposures with the inexpensive silk screen kit to make the stencils. Had I tried this first I would have stopped, cause they aren't horrible. But they are all a bit off. The high exposure leaves things out and the lower exposure of the emulsion made everything too blocky. I might in time get it, but it would be hard. This is a screen emulsion after exposure and wash. I was psyched at this stage. If it was for a T-shirt it would be great. ![]() I went back to the press-on vinyl with some mods in technique. So what do you think about this: ![]() If it doesn't fall apart on it's own, it is what will go into the car. I also decided to follow Andy's method and simplify the wiring. Especially as the LED runs 4 wires for the colors. Deutsch connectors from Jegs/ebay. ![]() So the back looks like this. It says 11/85 and is from I think the donor car for the 3.2. However there are only 3 spade connectors for the tach part. I think that is all I need: power, ground, and signal. ![]() If you have any insight into wiring the tach to the DME I would welcome it. Also, I have had enough for awhile. I want to hear the motor crank more than have a cute gauge. Do you think it is good enough as a stopping point? I will be back at it as the snow closes us in, but for now. As for distribution. I have some ideas yet to try to make them easier to make and better in quality. A laser printable substrate with the right texture and enough stretch for the curves is what I am looking for. It need not be self stick. This vinyl may be good enough. Or a quality screen print on the metal before forming. A) They have to be good enough. Not sure they are yet. B) This has taken so much time that I would only send them out for free to individuals who would use them. C) I am sort of interested in making entire gauges ready to plug and play. To do that the quality would have to be there and we would need to decide how authentic they need be. My stash of gauge pots is limited, but one could make substitutes with air motors. If we go that way, I will let my son do the work, and he will ask for some compensation. Unfortunately he favors French and British marques, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) |
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