Under cowl A/C unit design input thread and gauging interest, replacing behr with burrr! |
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Under cowl A/C unit design input thread and gauging interest, replacing behr with burrr! |
Chris914n6 |
Jul 23 2014, 08:24 PM
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#1
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Jackstands are my life. Group: Members Posts: 3,341 Joined: 14-March 03 From: Las Vegas, NV Member No.: 431 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Dusted off another one of my projects from when I first built my waterpumper. Heater and A/C replacing the factory fresh air blower unit.
History. I built the unit using a tube/fin core from my Uncle's buddy Dave @ Hotrod Air. HRA went under in the recession and so did the company that actually made the cores. Oddly enough this is a benefit despite having made some really nice wood vacuum forming bucks. The good news. For version 2 I went with separate heater and evap cores. The heater is off the shelf, I just need to trim the tubes. The evap I'm having made by a company I met at the 2013 SEMA show and is modern plate type. Blower is a 3 speed. The nitty gritty. Uses stock controls and stock air deflector boxes. Hoses run Pass side like DPD/VPC. I did design a setup for modern controls and deflector boxes with a separate side vent path, but it's a bit complicated to make. I have plans to offer 3 versions. Model B - A/C and heat for us waterpumpers. Runs recirc through the heater tube holes so no cutting. Unit is too tight of a fit for fresh air. I'll have an optional drainage piece for those that don't seal the grill. Model A - A/C only for aircooled cars. Because the heater tube holes are being used for heat, air intake will be from the grill opening. You could cut a 2.5" hole in the cowl for recirc instead if you wanted or use just one heat exchanger. Model H - Heater only for waterpumpers. Same unit as the A/C only except that recirc is possible through the heater hose holes OR model B with no evap, haven't decided yet. In the kit - Main unit, mounting brackets, air hoses & clamps, blower wiring, expansion valve, instructions. Options - Cabin filter. Grill water drain. The other pieces... Condensers- it depends on the radiator you using and what you can make fit, no point in me trying to keep an inventory. The exception could be a replacement to the DPD/VPC Condenser unit for air-cooled cars, I haven't gotten past doodles yet. Receiver-driers of the universal type can be had on Ebay for under $15 shipped, I'll pick one out for you, same with the pressure switch. Hoses, too many variations and too much overhead for me, but Vegas has 3 places that will build them on your car so I assume that's practically everywhere. Prices trend $100-$150. Hard lines- Research has spec'd it as 6063 aluminum. DPD/VPC used hard lines along the rocker and up the wheel wells. Heater hose- nothing special about it but it's long and 5/8"ID. Prices... about the same as the Hotrod kits. Manufacturing time is unknown and the biggest factor of course. I will have to buy 50+ evap cores to make this happen, so even if you are a year or more away from buying one speak up. Any feedback and who wants one? |
Chris914n6 |
Aug 11 2015, 09:03 PM
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#2
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Jackstands are my life. Group: Members Posts: 3,341 Joined: 14-March 03 From: Las Vegas, NV Member No.: 431 Region Association: Southwest Region |
timothy_nd28- I'm only selling the unit and the few things needed to essentially replace an under dash unit. Too many engines with too many options to do a full kit, with too few buyers.
I am, as part of looking at the big picture, looking into solutions to the other pieces involved, like the switch and condenser, so 40 buyers don't need to blow time looking for answers to common questions. I will likely make an AC appropriate insert for the fog light switch as it's the best match for the interior, unless I find one. euro911- At least until someone provides a new tech replacement. May or may not be me. Someone here made a kit for the Sanden for the T4. |
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