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smj |
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"Dude, Steve from Berkeley." ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 591 Joined: 28-August 05 From: Berkeley, CA Member No.: 4,691 Region Association: Northern California ![]() ![]() |
Bringing the 914-4 back from mostly sitting for the past three years (under 1,000 miles in all that time), I forgot the oil drain plug was boogered up by a DAPO or oil change place...
Based on what came out, there were only a few shreds of thread somehow attached to the bottom of the drain plug hole, and a horribly mangled soft crush washer. Most of the "bore" is pretty smooth, with some original thread left at the top. Pic below. My question is how to fix this. I see references to Heli-Coils, but somewhere I got the impression they need some thread left...? Whereas a Time-Sert or similar requires boring and fitting a thread insert. How difficult is it to do this right with something like a Time-sert for a guy that reassembled some CV joints correctly on the *second* try? With the car up on jack stands in the back, so at an angle. And then what the heck do I use for a drain plug? Thanks! ![]() |
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Mark Henry |
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that's what I do! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada ![]() |
I did the pipe plug on my dads vanagon, it worked just fine and was dirt cheap because I had the 3/8 NPT tap.
Timesert would cost over 100 bucks just for a tap kit that you would only ever use once. In this case I'd find a shop with the right tap and let them do it. Both methods use grease on the tap to catch the shavings, go slow and clean the tap often. I guess welding is an option, but only if the engine is apart. |
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