Trust Issues, Can I trust it? Options

[sdoolin]

Went to start the 914 a couple of days ago and noticed that the fuel pump sounded a little weak, didn't seem to run consistently when key turned. Car started, then died (as if it ran out of gas). Then would not start again. Cranked, but would not fire.

Luckily it was in the barn and not far away from home.

Went to push it out of the way last night (to get it on the lift) and it started right up. Damnit! I'd rather it stayed broken. It starts consistently now - even though the fuel pump still sounds weak.

So now I can't trust it to drive it anywhere for fear it'll not start somewhere far away.

Gonna check/replace the fuel pump and filter. Any other thoughts from the collective knowledge base?

[sdoolin]

As I somewhat suspected (and prolly many of you too) this is not as simple as buying a replacement pump, installing it, and living happily ever after.

Digging a little deeper, I do not get 12V across the FP connecter when key is switched on (I get like 0.2V). I swapped the headlight and FP relays on the relay board and the headlights work (they did before the swap also). Connecting a new (borrowed not bought) FP and switching the key on I get nothing at the pump.

So I can surmise that the relay is good and that I either have 1) a bad power lead, 2) a bad ground, or 3) a toasted relay board (I have several spares).

I have done some searches and it looks like some folks run a power line directly to the pump from the relay board?

Relay board comes out (again) today.

[Spoke]

Digging a little deeper, I do not get 12V across the FP connecter when key is switched on (I get like 0.2V).

I looked through your thread and missed the part of whether you have FI or carbs.

If FI, the FP only runs for 2 sec after the key is turned on and you would expect 0V when the key is left on.

Before you try to swap everything, with the engine on or running, measure the voltage at the FP from the POS to NEG terminals. Also measure at the FP from POS to chassis.

If you don't get what you expect, follow the wires back to the battery, measuring voltages from whatever you're measuring to chassis.

Many times solving electrical issues like this is not magic. You have a bad connection somewhere. You need to find it. It could be a board connector, a wire connector, a relay connector, and even a fuse. Follow the wiring from the FP to the battery. Somewhere is your issue.

Take your time and do the troubleshooting right. You can swap stuff out all day and if you're not touching the issue, you're just verifying that a good component is good.