914/LS vs 914/6 Options

[Cracker]

The first video shows a couple laps running behind the 914/6/3.0 (SixAddict) of a good friend. The longer part shows a little more solo action...man these cars are fun!


Second Day after changes (1 lap only) - amazing balance in the car!
https://youtu.be/NhHMaa0_R5o

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NhHMaa0_R5o


https://youtu.be/LfFdP8GnXiQ (12+ minutes)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LfFdP8GnXiQ


https://youtu.be/9Te6GScwxek (3 minutes)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Te6GScwxek


The GT3 Cup is faster everywhere but still allot of fun to (try) keep up with. I might be a smidgen faster down the straights - barely at best.

Tony

[Cracker]

Scott, Rich & Dave - Thanks to you all. I did "search" the paddock for info but didn't find anything "right on" with what I was experiencing.

The entire rear suspension has been reinforced (Chris Foley's) along with Patrick M. arms. All the bushings are poly (noisy!) and new. Very tight.

I added the "tire" and "springs" in my second post - Hoosier R7 but I'm sorting on the street right now with 5-year old Victoracers. It sounds like the the culprit might be the rear toe since I'm experiencing the WORST while under heavier acceleration. If I'm going down the highway
at 75, at static speed, its not nearly as bad.

From what I've gathered, do you'all agree with having 1/4 MORE camber in the rear's than the fronts? If so, I'm well short currently in the rear...how will increasing my rear camber .75 degrees affect toe out (under acceleration)? More sensitive or less?

Thanks!

Tony

[r_towle]

Scott, Rich & Dave - Thanks to you all. I did "search" the paddock for info but didn't find anything "right on" with what I was experiencing.

The entire rear suspension has been reinforced (Chris Foley's) along with Patrick M. arms. All the bushings are poly (noisy!) and new. Very tight.

I added the "tire" and "springs" in my second post - Hoosier R7 but I'm sorting on the street right now with 5-year old Victoracers. It sounds like the the culprit might be the rear toe since I'm experiencing the WORST while under heavier acceleration. If I'm going down the highway
at 75, at static speed, its not nearly as bad.

From what I've gathered, do you'all agree with having 1/4 MORE camber in the rear's than the fronts? If so, I'm well short currently in the rear...how will increasing my rear camber .75 degrees affect toe out (under acceleration)? More sensitive or less?

Thanks!

Tony

Contact Chris.
He did a lot of great analysis on the rear trailing arm physics throughout the full range of motion.
The chassis has limits, so you will rub inside or outside depending on your camber in th rear, and your tire width.

Adding and removing shims is not too hard, Chris has those for sale.
Paint the inner edge of the rear tire with white shoe polish and check as you add more negative camber by removing shims.
Once it starts rubbing, add one shim back.
That will be the physical limitation of your tub, and mine will be different than yours.

Then make sure to match both sides.
Also, when you think you have as much negative as possible, take ten lbs of air out of the tires and go beat on it around all sorts of corners and up and over elevation changes...
Then check the shoe polish on the inside to make sure you are right.
The lower air pressure will allow the tire to flex more....to make it rub.

In the front, again, the tub will dictate what you can do with the stock setup.
If you don't car about stock, and the racing body won't add points for mods, using a die grinder you can oval out the three upper mounting holes and get more negative camber, but go slowly, once again the car will rub up front at the limit.

So, once again, get polish on the inner tire and look for rubbing at the rear.

[stugray]

In the front, again, the tub will dictate what you can do with the stock setup.
If you don't car about stock, and the racing body won't add points for mods, using a die grinder you can oval out the three upper mounting holes and get more negative camber, but go slowly, once again the car will rub up front at the limit.

I just had my head in my wheel well looking at what mods I need to do to get more camber up front.
It looks like the limiting factor with the stock setup (if you hog out the holes and cut the sides off of the hats where the bushings are) is that the top of the shock will hit the body on the inside.
There is no way the tire will rub at the top on the inside as the shock will hit the body first.

I am considering using the offset ball joints to get a little more camber without hitting.