Suspension Question, Eurothane Bushings Options

[Chris Julian]

Calling all experienced suspension experts.

Just finished installing front Eurothane bushings into the front A arms on my car and I’ve got two questions:

1, How much force should it take to actuate the arm up and down. It takes about 20 lbs to get the arm to budge. Which leads to question #2. I searched the classics and only found info on the back bushings.

2, The front bushing retainers (the ones that actually mount to the body with two bolts) have two positions that they can be bolted in. The retainer is made up of two stamped pieces that are welded together. On one side of the mounting flanges there are two small plates spot welded to the flange, the other side has none. What is the correct side to mount to the body?

Thanks, Chris

[SpecialK]

Chris

The a-arms should not take that much force.  I would pull them back apart and polish the shafts some more and doa  little more "hone" work on the bushings.  I would add Grease fittings to the suspension arms as this will make it much nicer at the end of the month.

Depending on whether or not your chassis has been smacked or not I  put the pads against the body.  You need to check the alignment or the arms and make sure the bushings aren't binding.

I'd love to have a set of Mueller's bearings, but at the time I hadn't known about them and already had a set of the polygraphite bushings sitting there. So.....

Mine fit the swing arm loose, until I pressed them into the end suspension piece thingys (technical terminology (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) ), then I couldn't get them on the swing arm without considerable force...not good. Ended up taking the vernier calipers to the bearing surface of the swing arms and hand reamed the bushings (reamer borrowed from a machinist buddy) while they were installed in the "thingys" (.003" over), grooved them with the dremel, hit all pieces with some 600 grit, loaded the channel with some tribolube grease (teflon), slid the thingys on the swing arm, and sealed the joints with some 3" heat shrink...turned out sweet. After it was installed, light pressure was required to raise the arm, and it sloooowly returned to the full down position under it's own weight with absolutely zero binding (no torsion bars installed). If the rest of the car would go that smooth, I'd be driving the SOB right now.........Already thought of a vanity plate for it: 'AGRV8R'