Snapped a couple of outer CV bolts, Need some advice on repair Options

[phillstek]

Backing out of the drive at the office on Xmas eve I heard a loud snapping sound from the right rear of the car. I managed to move the car forward a few meters and heard another snap though not as loud and decided that I probably shouldn’t try to continue without checking out the source of the noises.

Got underneath and found the outer, righthand side CV had come completely loose but with all six of the bolts still there.

Got it home on a flat bed, up the jack stands and dropped the axle to find 2 of the bolts had snapped off but only one of them with the broken end still in the drive flange.

Checked the other threads in the drive flange for damage and other than the one that has a piece of the bolt in it, one other thread is damaged. There is also a small burr on the recess in the drive flange where the paper gasket mounts between it and the CV.

I’m pretty sure the drive flange can be repaired but wanted confirmation on the removal procedure.

If I undo the big castle nut on the stub axle should I be able to drift the drive flange out through the back of the trailing arm and is re-intallation the drive flange the reverse?

Stubs are 911 5 lug and the drive flange is 6 bolt. I also have a spacer between the CV and the drive flange. The spacer is the outer ring of a CV and compensates for the difference between using the original 914 driveshafts.

I’ll post some pics later which should help. Thanks.

[76-914]

My version, albeit shown in the tightening mode.

[NeunEinVier]

Shouldn't be an issue if using a brass drift on a hardened axle shaft, but in general I like to leave the nut flush with the end of a shaft or stud when hammering the threaded end.

Leaving the nut on helps prevent the end of the shaft from mushrooming if the metal is soft, so you don't have to run a die over the threads later.

[mgp4591]

Shouldn't be an issue if using a brass drift on a hardened axle shaft, but in general I like to leave the nut flush with the end of a shaft or stud when hammering the threaded end.

Leaving the nut on helps prevent the end of the shaft from mushrooming if the metal is soft, so you don't have to run a die over the threads later.

That's what I've done also. When you reinstall the axle, use some anti-seize on the axle splines ONLY. That way it should pop out easily the next time. The threads must be clean to properly torque the axle nut- usually 2 threads past the cotter key hole will bring it to torque specs if the proper wrench isn't available but I'd still have it checked as soon as possible.