Oil Galley Plugs, Just replace the five big ones? Options

[saigon71]

In preparation for an engine rebuild, I wanted to get myself up to speed on drilling/tapping the oil galley plugs.

Search revealed conflicting information about whether all should be removed and tapped or just the five big ones.

What's the current school of thought on this?

Also, what size plugs and drill/tap will I need.

Thanks!

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=103988&hl=

[nathansnathan]

When I did this the 1st time, I had got some 3/8" NPT plugs from mcmaster-carr and they were way thicker (would have to be run deeper) than the ones I ended up using which I got from rimco. I don't think they would have worked for the outer one by the oil cooler.

I was able to use 1 tap and just ground it down alternately to running it, like it became a bottoming tap by the time I was done. You just need it for that one by the oil cooler.

wd-40 is relatively bad as a lubricant. I think it's pretty bad for everything actually and refuse to buy such a crappy consumer-ish product. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif) For such an important job I would use actual oil and go for class A threads.

I used loctite 518 to seal them, as it sets anaerobically.

[Mark Henry]

When I did this the 1st time, I had got some 3/8" NPT plugs from mcmaster-carr and they were way thicker (would have to be run deeper) than the ones I ended up using which I got from rimco. I don't think they would have worked for the outer one by the oil cooler.

I was able to use 1 tap and just ground it down alternately to running it, like it became a bottoming tap by the time I was done. You just need it for that one by the oil cooler.

wd-40 is relatively bad as a lubricant. I think it's pretty bad for everything actually and refuse to buy such a crappy consumer-ish product. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif) For such an important job I would use actual oil and go for class A threads.

I used loctite 518 to seal them, as it sets anaerobically.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)
Meh.... guess I've been doing it wrong since the early 90's, oh well just a few hundred or more type one full flow and T4 cases.

The plugs by the cooler can sit proud, they won't interfere with anything.
BTW if you are going with a full flow system you only really have to do the one top hole.

[nathansnathan]

When I did this the 1st time, I had got some 3/8" NPT plugs from mcmaster-carr and they were way thicker (would have to be run deeper) than the ones I ended up using which I got from rimco. I don't think they would have worked for the outer one by the oil cooler.

I was able to use 1 tap and just ground it down alternately to running it, like it became a bottoming tap by the time I was done. You just need it for that one by the oil cooler.

wd-40 is relatively bad as a lubricant. I think it's pretty bad for everything actually and refuse to buy such a crappy consumer-ish product. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif) For such an important job I would use actual oil and go for class A threads.

I used loctite 518 to seal them, as it sets anaerobically.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)
Meh.... guess I've been doing it wrong since the early 90's, oh well just a few hundred or more type one full flow and T4 cases.

The plugs by the cooler can sit proud, they won't interfere with anything.
BTW if you are going with a full flow system you only really have to do the one top hole.

Meh.... guess working as a machinist I wouldn't know about threading aluminum.'

WD40 is mostly mineral oil and wax. Aluminum has a tendency to gall and to break taps. Make it easy on yourself, and the threads will be better.

To get class A threads will require that you tap a minimum amount, meaning letting it sit proud.. it isn't really up to you in this situation. I was simply stating that is something to look out for.

You made me put you back on my ignore list. Not sure how you ever got removed.