Time to rebuild DRLA's? |
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Time to rebuild DRLA's? |
era vulgaris |
Mar 10 2016, 05:52 PM
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#1
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J is for Genius Group: Members Posts: 982 Joined: 10-November 13 From: Raleigh, NC Member No.: 16,629 Region Association: South East States |
This is a continuation from another thread, but to summarize my car very suddenly started driving like crap yesterday. In the middle of a drive it started popping and sputtering, and became pretty much undriveable. AFR was suddenly in the high teens.
At first I thought it was to do with fuel delivery. That turned out not to be the case. What I noticed today after I managed to get it to actually idle is that during warm up, cylinders 1 and 2 seem to be acting normal. But 3 and 4 heat up extremely quickly, and heat up past their normal idle temps and would probably continue to heat up well into the danger zone if I let them. I'm running DRLA 40's, and I'm still getting to know these carbs. The idle jets are clean. All I can think is that there's possibly a vacuum leak, maybe a seal or gasket failed suddenly while I was driving. They were rebuilt about 5 years ago though. Time for a rebuild? Anyone who knows Dells well know of anything I should check before I start tearing them apart? And does the rebuild kit from CB include everything I'll need? |
ljubodraz |
Mar 10 2016, 07:15 PM
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#2
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Member Group: Members Posts: 64 Joined: 4-May 14 From: Chicagoland Member No.: 17,312 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
This is a continuation from another thread, but to summarize my car very suddenly started driving like crap yesterday. In the middle of a drive it started popping and sputtering, and became pretty much undriveable. AFR was suddenly in the high teens. At first I thought it was to do with fuel delivery. That turned out not to be the case. What I noticed today after I managed to get it to actually idle is that during warm up, cylinders 1 and 2 seem to be acting normal. But 3 and 4 heat up extremely quickly, and heat up past their normal idle temps and would probably continue to heat up well into the danger zone if I let them. I'm running DRLA 40's, and I'm still getting to know these carbs. The idle jets are clean. All I can think is that there's possibly a vacuum leak, maybe a seal or gasket failed suddenly while I was driving. They were rebuilt about 5 years ago though. Time for a rebuild? Anyone who knows Dells well know of anything I should check before I start tearing them apart? And does the rebuild kit from CB include everything I'll need? Can't speak much to the higher temps on 3/4 but my thoughts are lean condition. Lean from vacuum leak or needle valve/float. Currently rebuilding my DRLA's and have the following advice from my experience and what I've learned here: Order rebuild kit from Eurocarb/Dellorto UK because CB kit's needle valves are rumored to be poor quality. From UK, I ordered the more expensive kit with Viton tipped needle valve. The kit included wrong filters for inlet, too long intended for small bolt version. Do not remove all o-rings at once. Clean parts with o-rings intact. When ready, remove o-ring and compare to the many included in kit... sometimes hard to differentiate. You could categorize sizes pre-cleaning too. Beyond that, I regret dipping crabs in pine sol. Chose pine sol because I wanted to avoid removing the bearings per advice. My carb's aluminum looked like new but now all aluminum has darkened and in some cases corroding. First carb dip of 24 hours, second only 6; same results. It will look OK while submerged but will darken within minutes once removed and rinsing. Don't even let ventures soak in water after rinsing. I thought starved of O2 in water would prevent oxidation/corrosion for one week. Bad mistake. Boiling afterwards in vinegar solution doesn't really help either. Certain parts are more sensitive such as top cover and inlet; they turned pasty as though dissolving surface. I wish I had followed Modok's advice on the samba who once stated there is no reason to dip the carb's if they're not bad. Simply spray with carb cleaner and blow out all ports. The pine sol didn't even clean very well IMHO. Boiling the brass in vinegar/water only made more work for me too as they would darken significantly after removal. Ended up polishing with minimal amounts of metal polish to return to intended condition. Don't think that after boiling you should dip them in something like olive oil since it's handy in the kitchen to seal from oxidation lol! It's like magnifying the impact of the oils on your skin by 100 and will really darken the brass. Sorry for the long winded response from a noob... simply hoping to help you so you can avoid my mistakes. I'm a cautious person and researched the subject thoroughly before hand and still have regrets. |
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