Converting from Fuel Injection to Carbs, Need Fuel Distrabution help |
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Converting from Fuel Injection to Carbs, Need Fuel Distrabution help |
Robin914-4 |
Nov 28 2015, 12:06 PM
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#1
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 10 Joined: 28-November 15 From: Statesboro, Georgia Member No.: 19,419 Region Association: South East States |
Hey Everybody. I have been searching for an hour with no luck. I have a 1976 914/4 that I have converted over to 44mm Empi's. Now I am setting up the fuel system, new low pressure pump, stainless lines, presure regulator, etc. what I can't figure out is what to do with the extra line I have on the fuel tank. Should I cap it? Vent it? I did run both stainless line back to the engine bay so I could t them in or what ever. I just need some guidance.
Thanks in advance. Robin |
era vulgaris |
Apr 10 2016, 12:55 PM
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#2
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J is for Genius Group: Members Posts: 982 Joined: 10-November 13 From: Raleigh, NC Member No.: 16,629 Region Association: South East States |
Here's a drawing I found online that illustrates what is happening with the flaps. Does that make sense now? See how the air goes under the flap to the cooler?
Attached image(s) |
GregAmy |
Apr 10 2016, 03:47 PM
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#3
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,311 Joined: 22-February 13 From: Middletown CT Member No.: 15,565 Region Association: North East States |
Here's a drawing I found online that illustrates what is happening with the flaps. Does that make sense now? See how the air goes under the flap to the cooler? Very useful, thanks for the drawing. Is there any way to test this system with the engine in the car? I have a terrible problem with high oil temps in the summer time (like "260-270+ terrible", verified with the dipstick thermometer). Runs great today (45*) but some summer time (80-90+) I gotta keep movin'... I have verified from underneath (I have a lift) that the bellows is working (used a home propane torch to test it), and I can hear some items "clank" at full travel either way. But I'm not seein' a way to verify position of these flaps without having to dig down into the engine covers. |
era vulgaris |
Apr 10 2016, 03:54 PM
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#4
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J is for Genius Group: Members Posts: 982 Joined: 10-November 13 From: Raleigh, NC Member No.: 16,629 Region Association: South East States |
Very useful, thanks for the drawing. Is there any way to test this system with the engine in the car? I have a terrible problem with high oil temps in the summer time (like "260-270+ terrible", verified with the dipstick thermometer). Runs great today (45*) but some summer time (80-90+) I gotta keep movin'... I have verified from underneath (I have a lift) that the bellows is working (used a home propane torch to test it), and I can hear some items "clank" at full travel either way. But I'm not seein' a way to verify position of these flaps without having to dig down into the engine covers. The bar that the flaps are attached to can be seen from above the engine. (Don't pay attention to the red circles. I pulled this image off google.) On the left side near the spring is a little tab. You can manually turn the flaps if you disconnect the cable and see that they're at full open or closed. Default position is at full open in case the cable or thermostat breaks. I suppose it's possible that the individual flaps themselves may be out of whack. The only way to know would be to remove the cooling tins. High oil temps could also be due to a worn oil pressure release valve. The stock valve has an oil cooler bypass function for warm up that can wear out over time and allow too much oil to bypass the cooler. If you get the upgraded one from Tangerine Racing it'll eliminate that problem. Attached image(s) |
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