Accelerator Cable for Dual Carbs ? Options

[cary]

In putting Mark's engine back in and replacing the broken accelerator cable. It seems the cable isn't quite long enough to work/fit correctly. In the FI arrangement the cable crosses the engine at 45 degrees. In dual carbs it needs to come at the bar at 90 degrees. Which pulls the bowden out of the firewall. Which will allow water down the cable tube.

What have others done to work around this ?

[Darren C]

Thanks for the kind comments.
I can understand your hope in making the CSP linkage you have “work to a fashion” which is a no cost option for you; but the title of the thread is accelerator cable related.
The fact of the matter is, the CSP linkage places the cable in line with the crankcase join, leading to having to re-route, bend and re-support the cable in an awkward way that will lead to length and binding issues. However “neat” you may think the CSP linkage initially looks, it isn’t a good product and will always have the inherent engineering faults that will cause issues.
As a very low cost compromise you could cut (hacksaw) off the short arm where the throttle cable connects, install the linkage and set the 45 Deg angle, adjust the rods to the carbs then weld the cut off short cable arm back on at a new angle in line with where the cable should run in a stock layout. You’ll need to make up a new small support bracket for the cable so that it can run at the natural angle it needs, to avoid all the issues.

RG,
The tangerine racing cable system is SHOCKING. Do you really think that that is good engineering??
Ok, you may go “ooooo” & ahhhhh” when you slap eyes on it, but really; its bloody stupid, over engineered and damn right dangerous.
Again your take off the Weber levers? Then fit pulley wheels with a counterbore in which to refit the lever retaining nut….so theres no provision then for the tab lock washer??
There is slotted brackets on which slotted brackets and eyebolts fit to hold the cable! This is BAD engineering and gives scope for the whole damn thing moving out of alignment.
You then link Carb A to B with a Bowden cable! So you are totally reliant upon Carb B’s return spring to keep the cable tension as well as return the throttle to idle when you lift off the gas pedal!!!
This in itself is plain stupid and dangerous as there is potential for not only imbalance in the control of the Twin carbs but also a chance that Carb B may stick open if the cable sticks or the return spring on Carb B breaks or weakens.
With age the Bowden cables will increase in resistance between the Carbs and to some minor extent suffer with heat expansion & contraction.
There is also a risk you run a cable off the pulley in a jam situation.
On rapid throttle operation the cable resistances will effect balanced “snap shut” responses between carbs. This will promote poor fuel balance and cause at best “popping” or at worst unwanted surge when you desire engine braking.
At least with a metal bar link rods you get positive shut off and proportional opening & closing between Carbs.
There is also the problem of running the accelerator cable to the first carb in this set up. The stock cable is either going to be too long or too short!

The whole Tangerine set up is intrinsically dangerous!
It’s a great example of “the emperors new clothes” engineering by someone without a clue of the big picture.