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> Break in oil, What to use and do you need it
shelby/914
post May 15 2016, 10:29 PM
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last fall I blew a capped air injection tube out of one head in my '76, so the engine has been refreshed. Barrels were pulled and honed, fresh rings and a set of rebuilt '73 heads and a new oil cooler. It will be reinstalled in the next few weeks and plan to change oil after a few short drives. I was using Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15w50 based on a local Porsche shop. I've got a case of both 20w50 and 10w30 Brad Penn in the garage in addition to the Mobil 1.

What would use and how soon would you do the first oil change. Doesn't have to be any of the above. Recommendations appreciated.

Dan
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cgnj
post May 18 2016, 10:27 PM
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OK , which one of you peeps is a oil formulations scientist? Like maybe you're the subject matter expert for Mobil? I'm tired of this oil bullshit about the zinc. At the time this was an issue, China was entering the automotive market and many peeps had their cams run flat on break in. As a result, you are now married to a market that requires you to pay a premium for lifters, valve springs, or some other "super kit"because some air-cooled super-tuner said that there is no zinc in synthetic oil.

Anyone hear of a run-flat problem om cam break in in the last 15 years? Think it is because Brad Penn or Royal Purple is the answer? I'm guessing it is because quality lifters from reputable companies don't come from China any longer.

Bonus question. Why was zinc ever an additive in oil and why was it taken out? Fair warning, in addition to knowing Mr. Subject Matter expert at Mobil, I happen to be related to Mr Zinc ( Materials Scientist, Subject matter expert for INCO.), and Mr. Stainless Steel (Materials Scientist, Subject Matter expert National Bureau of Standards). So while you dopes pay a premium for nothing, I spend my money on better parts, engineering, and machining and drain the oil.

Carlos
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