Factory suspension geometry |
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Factory suspension geometry |
Tyler E |
May 24 2016, 12:37 PM
Post
#1
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 8 Joined: 25-April 09 From: Western Canada Member No.: 10,304 Region Association: None |
Most questions I have I can find the answers to by searching, but I'm coming up with nothing on this. These pics show the way Porsche measured the ride height on the 911 by measuring the spindle centerline and the torsion bar centerline. Are there specs like this for both the front and back of the 914.
All the reading Ive done on ride height has been related to measuring to the rocker, donut on the floor or fender lip. Im interested in the geometry Porsche used for the road cars, and also what they suggested for racing. Any link or book would be appreciated. |
r_towle |
May 25 2016, 02:21 PM
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#2
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,585 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
Just my experience for a street car that I setup for pure autox, now back to street.
The front control arms should never be horizontal. The ball joint should always be lower than the pivot point. You can get pretty close, but never level or more....it creates bump steer and ruins the geometry. If you feel the need to go that low, you need raised spindle struts to keep that steering geometry correct. For now, shoot for slightly lower on the ball joint side... Then, for looks I like about 3/8 inch rake so the rear is a bit higher. Simply measure the front and rear of the rocker panel to a level surface. Once you have the look you want you will need to corner balance the car which may change things....but you need to start somewhere. Now, in reality the car will handle better with the front about 3/8 inch higher than the rear' but it will look odd to most people. For toe in at front I use a total of 1/8-1/4 inch overall toe IN at the front In the rear, I use abut 1/8 in total toe IN in the rear. Now, for autox, toe OUT in front and rear makes turning in a whole lot faster and easier....almost like cheating... BUT! It sucks to drive on the street....can be done, but it sucks It also will wear out the tires quickly. Rich |
LowBridge |
May 25 2016, 02:34 PM
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#3
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Member Group: Members Posts: 370 Joined: 10-August 15 From: Lunenburg, MA Member No.: 19,045 Region Association: North East States |
Just my experience for a street car that I setup for pure autox, now back to street. The front control arms should never be horizontal. The ball joint should always be lower than the pivot point. You can get pretty close, but never level or more....it creates bump steer and ruins the geometry. If you feel the need to go that low, you need raised spindle struts to keep that steering geometry correct. For now, shoot for slightly lower on the ball joint side... Then, for looks I like about 3/8 inch rake so the rear is a bit higher. Simply measure the front and rear of the rocker panel to a level surface. Once you have the look you want you will need to corner balance the car which may change things....but you need to start somewhere. Now, in reality the car will handle better with the front about 3/8 inch higher than the rear' but it will look odd to most people. For toe in at front I use a total of 1/8-1/4 inch overall toe IN at the front In the rear, I use abut 1/8 in total toe IN in the rear. Now, for autox, toe OUT in front and rear makes turning in a whole lot faster and easier....almost like cheating... BUT! It sucks to drive on the street....can be done, but it sucks It also will wear out the tires quickly. Rich so what's your backlog for an alignment at this time (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) |
r_towle |
May 25 2016, 10:19 PM
Post
#4
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,585 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
Just my experience for a street car that I setup for pure autox, now back to street. The front control arms should never be horizontal. The ball joint should always be lower than the pivot point. You can get pretty close, but never level or more....it creates bump steer and ruins the geometry. If you feel the need to go that low, you need raised spindle struts to keep that steering geometry correct. For now, shoot for slightly lower on the ball joint side... Then, for looks I like about 3/8 inch rake so the rear is a bit higher. Simply measure the front and rear of the rocker panel to a level surface. Once you have the look you want you will need to corner balance the car which may change things....but you need to start somewhere. Now, in reality the car will handle better with the front about 3/8 inch higher than the rear' but it will look odd to most people. For toe in at front I use a total of 1/8-1/4 inch overall toe IN at the front In the rear, I use abut 1/8 in total toe IN in the rear. Now, for autox, toe OUT in front and rear makes turning in a whole lot faster and easier....almost like cheating... BUT! It sucks to drive on the street....can be done, but it sucks It also will wear out the tires quickly. Rich so what's your backlog for an alignment at this time (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) It's something you can learn to do at home. Happy to show you, and happy to help. Rich |
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