Clutch cable replacement, couple questions. Options

[JamesB2]

hey folks,

Let me start with the situation:

A while back I noticed some fraying in my clutch cable and instead of taking care of it then I thought, "it'll hold." It did hold but then that day came where the clutch pedal dropped to the floor and luckily I was driving in a 25 mph zone and stuck in second gear.

Now, I have searched and searched and came up with a general idea of how to replace the cable. At this point in time, I have the cable disconnected from the clutch pedal, took the pin out. I have read where people say tying a string to the cable allows you to snake the new cable through and avoid wrapping around the accelerator.

Now in one post I read to unscrew the end of the clutch cable at attaches to the clutch. Is it necessary to remove that end piece? I feel like using the hole would make tying a string to it more secure and easier.

Thanks in advance,
James

[injunmort]

no offense, but don't cut anything. dial the clevis end down and tighten the gland nut, if it is too long and the transmission, a couple washers to take up the slack is perfectly acceptable. cutting either end of the cable is a bad idea even if you have the correct die to repair the threads.

[porschetub]

no offense, but don't cut anything. dial the clevis end down and tighten the gland nut, if it is too long and the transmission, a couple washers to take up the slack is perfectly acceptable. cutting either end of the cable is a bad idea even if you have the correct die to repair the threads.

I purchased this cable from GPR Cofle brand from memory ,I did as you mentioned and screwed the clevis on as far as I could and found the cable nowhere near central on the release fork @ the g/box end.
Screwed the clevis on further but it obviously wouldn't fit on the arm,removed the clevis and cut 10mm off after threading a nut on the inside of the cut (no need for a die ).
Put it all back to together and bingo only needed to tighten a small amount @ the gearbox to get correct pedal freeplay and plenty of room for future adjustment
All parts in the system new or inspected;
new clutch and unmachined -6 flywheel,
new release bearing guides and ball cup ,
no extra washers under release arm pivot,
rebuilt pedal assembly,
new cable roller and bush,
guide tube in tunnel still solid.
So after all that makes me wonder why it was too long??.
By the way no offence taken (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)