Blue Porscheru Conversion, Subaru 2.5 SOHC NA with Suby Tranny Options

[R_u_dd]

Blue Porscheru Conversion

I started this project back in May of 2014 and wanted to share the journey with my friends and family.
There's something appealing to people about taking a left-for-dead vehicle and bringing it back to life.
I hope this build thread is a bit different than the others. It's a Subaru conversion which is not as common.

I am/was a newbie. This is my first car restoration, if you can call it that.
My welds are not pretty, but I've improved and learned throughout this process.
This is a great car for a first restoration. It's light, simple, and very cool- mid engine with a targa top.

This is the plan- We are starting with a 1971 tangerine 914 with light to moderate rust, nothing too serious.
The original engine was a 1.7. Like so many other 914's it ran but has been sitting for a long time.
The engine seems too far gone to try to rebuild it= lots of rust and corrosion.

Powerplant: 2003 Subaru Impreza TS 2.5 SOHC, Natuaral- No Turbo, Why? Plenty of Power for me and no turbo lag. See Engine Choices thread.
Transmission: Subaru 5MT 2003 Impreza TS
ECU from: 2003 Subaru Impreza TS
Electronics: Wiring Harness simplified by Small Car Performance
Axles: 944 axles and CV's with Subaru inside CV- 4 lug for now.
914 suspension.
No fender flares
Voltage Blue Metallic: (Honda color), Painted Sail Panels.

Before Pictures

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The Future Look- Concepts

The 914 visualizer, a very cool app.

Current Look:

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Contents

Axles
Blasting Glass Bead Videos
Battery Tray Area
Battery and Tray
Budget Scenarios
Brakes
Bumper - Valence
Clutch
Electronics
Engine Discussion
Engine Mount
Engine Work
Floor Pans and Engman Kit
Fuel Pump
Fuel Tank (Cleaning with Electrolysis)
Paint Prep and Metal Work
Paint Prep Continued
Radiator
Seats and Interior
Seats Re-upholstery Links
Transmission
Transmission Mount
Videos

This thread is for entertainment purposes only. I am not a certified mechanic.
There are many that have pioneered the suby conversion before me, but this
is my story.

Hope you enjoy this thread!

Chris

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[R_u_dd]

Gauges, Gauges and More Gauges

The original look of the gauges is great. In a concourse or restored 914 with original engine and transmission the best thing is to restore the original gauges. But for me, a Suberite, one has to use the digital speedometer rather than the cable speedo. Questions to think about: Should I rebuild the speedometer and save the faceplate and recalibrate? Should I just start over with new gauges? Which of the other gauges are usable? After a lot of web searching and pricing, what I decided to do is replace the gauges entirely with some original look VDO gauges.

Here is some background material that I found while trying to make an informed decision:

Everything you need to know about your model year Gauges from P 914 Forum

Time For Gauges, What Should I consider, thread by Cairo94507

Gauges by timothy_nd28:

How to Rebuild Gauges Using Modern Parts

Gauge Lighting, This Little Light of Mine

Custom Gauge Lighting, DIY kits or send them to me

Upgrading the tachometer, to remove that bounce


Vendors:

Palo Alto Speedometer

And from:

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Ideas for Dash Board Layout (Pictures from forum member cars)-



Link to: Pictures of 1973 Dash and Gauges

Pictures from another interior. Not sure the year.

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I bought a 6 gauge set of genuine VDO gauges off ebay for $280 bucks plus a clock for another $40. The small gauges are 2 1/16 inch and the two large gauges are 3 3/8". They are a bit small, but that allows them to be put into the main dashboard. I tried six gauge clusters and five gauge clusters above the steering wheel and decided on the five plus two in the ash tray area. The center console looks very nice, but in the end, I think I might feel confined in the cockpit with it there.

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I learned that the 2" hole cutter actually creates a larger hole when you don't use a drill press. Cutting by hand, there is just enough wobble to make the hole a bit larger. The 2 1/16 inch measurement is for the outside of the gauge. The hole needs to be 2". Since my hole was just slightly larger, I put a rubber bumper around the outside of the gauge (cut from a bicycle inner tube). Worked perfectly, and I have a snug fit now. I cut the larger holes very carefully with a jigsaw and got the fit nice and snug.

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I screwed the aluminum sheet metal to the back of the original to use for a template to cut the outside perimeter and mark the location of the screw holes.

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I saw this technique somewhere to create a pattern in the aluminum. If you make the swirls, here's a few tips. Use a drill press. Take your time. Go the same direction with your swirls. Cut half the previous circle with your bit. You can't very well redo your swirls, because it creates a different reflection. Keep your lines straight. I did mine by hand with my drill and a brass brush from a dremel kit. Seems to work fairly well, but if you look closely, my pattern is not that precise. The lines could be straighter and pattern more precise. They should all look like Japanese fans. Usually only the artist notices their own flaws. I like the swirls though. It gives the dashboard more depth and covers up the fact that the gauges are slightly off center.

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The board with the gauges in them. The lower part will be folded down.

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