Is a distributor recurve worth the money?, /6 2.7l |
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Is a distributor recurve worth the money?, /6 2.7l |
tornik550 |
Oct 12 2016, 02:18 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,248 Joined: 29-January 07 From: Ohio Member No.: 7,486 Region Association: None |
Do I need to have my distributor recurved? I am using a stock 2.7 distributor on my carburetor 2.7 L engine I understand that to have a optimal performance a recurve is needed however is it really worth $500? My car is not set up for racing?
In other words will icy $500 worth of improvement from the modification ? My distributor is otherwise in excellent condition. |
JmuRiz |
Oct 12 2016, 02:50 PM
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#2
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,433 Joined: 30-December 02 From: NoVA Member No.: 50 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Interesting, how do you know how to program the correct curve with the A6-2?
If programing curves, wouldn't just going with a distributorless system make more sense? FWIW: I'm in the same boat, trying to see what is the best option for my 2.7 that will be running carbs (if the internals check out OK). |
Mark Henry |
Oct 12 2016, 03:41 PM
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#3
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that's what I do! Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada |
Interesting, how do you know how to program the correct curve with the A6-2? If programing curves, wouldn't just going with a distributorless system make more sense? FWIW: I'm in the same boat, trying to see what is the best option for my 2.7 that will be running carbs (if the internals check out OK). How do you know what to program into a distributorless system? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Really the curve itself isn't rocket science. You can look up on the net what other peeps have used for curves. It usually starts at 10 degrees BTDC up to 1000 rpm and steps up to full advance at around 2600-3000rpm. Full advance is somewhere between 28-32 degrees. As long as you don't go over 32 degrees you're golden. Phasing is a concern, basically its the point the rotor is in contact with say the #1 pin, throughout the advance curve you must have contact. The 2.0-2.7 cap and rotor has a smaller contact area, so you might not be able to get much more the 28 degrees (actually 18 degrees advance, 28-10=18) total advance. You don't have to fool with retard, you can, but that's more for turbos. As with any tuning I highly recommend a wideband O2 meter, it will tell you instantly if you are running too lean. Rich makes it run like shit, but in the short term it doesn't hurt much. Lean on the other hand can burn a hole in a piston PDQ. After that your curve will be a combo of research and playing with the program. |
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