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3d914 |
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#1
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,275 Joined: 24-September 03 From: Benson, AZ Member No.: 1,191 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() |
Working on the support frame for my trunk lid so it opens from the back instead of the front. I'm planning on using 14ga steel, but may need to go to 16ga if I can't find a tool for this. Preferably I'd like an angled, not flat, flange. Most the hand or pneumatic tools out there only do a flat flange for like an overlap weld joint. Anyone seen or used a hand (pneumatic) tool with something other than a flat flange?
Here's the drawing for the support frame (in orange). They'll plasma cut the pieces for me, so I need to find a method to flange these cutouts that lighten the piece, to add the strength back in. ![]() If I can't find a hand tool for this, I'll need to go with a press and some hole flange tools - but those I can add without having these shapes pre-cut. ![]() |
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McMark |
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#2
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914 Freak! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None ![]() |
A bead roller might be able to do what you need, but the 'right way' would involve milling special die sets to curve those edges. Super cool, but way too much work for a single use.
You'd have to be really good with a really nice bead roller to flare that. For what you're trying to do, you might look at making wooden bucks and hand hammering the pieces. You could cut the radius into the buck with a router. And you'd probably want a cover/plate/buck to hold most of the material flat and stable while hammering. Here's a crude version of what I'm talking about. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ADjYv8WjgI |
3d914 |
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#3
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,275 Joined: 24-September 03 From: Benson, AZ Member No.: 1,191 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() |
A bead roller might be able to do what you need, but the 'right way' would involve milling special die sets to curve those edges. Super cool, but way too much work for a single use. You'd have to be really good with a really nice bead roller to flare that. For what you're trying to do, you might look at making wooden bucks and hand hammering the pieces. You could cut the radius into the buck with a router. And you'd probably want a cover/plate/buck to hold most of the material flat and stable while hammering. Here's a crude version of what I'm talking about. Mark, I considered that, but the cost of one for just for these two pieces isn't practical. Also, I think a bead roller would have difficulty with these smaller radius corners. I know I didn't put any dimensions on, but it's only about 14 inches across the length. You're suggestion about the wood buck might be a way to go, but again I think the compound small radius' will be a challenge. I'll also have to get some small headed shaping hammers to fit in those radii. With all the pneumatic flange tools out there, you think there'd be one that has an angle flange instead of a flat. |
McMark |
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#4
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914 Freak! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None ![]() |
With all the pneumatic flange tools out there, you think there'd be one that has an angle flange instead of a flat. But you're also up against 14g. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/yikes.gif) I've formed a little 16g and it's a major PITA. 14g is even harder. A small pneumatic hand tool just isn't up to that. |
914forme |
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#5
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Times a wastin', get wrenchin'! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,896 Joined: 24-July 04 From: Dayton, Ohio Member No.: 2,388 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
With all the pneumatic flange tools out there, you think there'd be one that has an angle flange instead of a flat. But you're also up against 14g. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/yikes.gif) I've formed a little 16g and it's a major PITA. 14g is even harder. A small pneumatic hand tool just isn't up to that. Yes 16ga is a pain, but can be done. 14 gauge is just (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) guessing you could add lots of heat, and beat the (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stromberg.gif) out of it, a maple buck just won't hold up to the heat. At that point I would just add a piece of 1/8" around the hole, and mill the it into a flange. Or just weld in a piece of 1/16 rod, close to the same result, and grind in the flange. Or take a piece of 1/8" steel and just mill it to 14 garage where you don.t want or need it to have a flange. You only need to remove 0.05 of an inch to get you close to that 14 gauge mark. It is a little less but what few thousandths amongst friends. You form 14gauge by hand you will have Popeye arms for sure (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) I do have a set of punch dies that will do the work on 3/16" plate, but it requires a 20 Ton press to pull it off. So You could make a die to do the job and fit it into a press and do a small section at a time. You will also need one for your radiuses corners. You could get away with two dies that way. Still liking the welded way slap some paint on it nobody will be the wiser. |
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