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ricardo |
Nov 9 2016, 10:55 AM
Post
#1
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 47 Joined: 9-November 16 From: Lakeview, NY Member No.: 20,572 Region Association: North East States |
New to this site and not sure what I am doing or how to post a problem
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timothy_nd28 |
Nov 11 2016, 11:08 PM
Post
#2
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,299 Joined: 25-September 07 From: IN Member No.: 8,154 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Let's go back to post 12 test #2. As you are redoing this test, measure the voltage at the dual relay at pin 88d. 88d will have a pretty thick black wire with red stripe in the connector that attaches to the relay. Leave the socket attached to the dual relay, you will need to back probe when getting this measurement. With the meter set for DC, have one meter lead on the negative battery post while the other meter lead is stuck inside the socket for pin 88d.
Turn the ignition switch on, and deflect the flap inside the airflow meter. You should hear the dual relay click like you did before. As the relay clicks, you should see a solid 12 volts on your meter. The black/red stripe wire on pin 88d heads to the fuel pump. If you didn't see 12volts from the prevous test, you can temporarily add a jumper between 88d of the dual relay straight to the positive post of the battery for testing purposes. Be cautious when turning the ignition switch on with the engine not running. You run the risk of burning up the points or electronic module inside the distributor. It would be wise to temporary remove the positive wire on the ignition coil |
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