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| 3d914 |
Nov 6 2016, 12:26 PM
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#1
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,275 Joined: 24-September 03 From: Benson, AZ Member No.: 1,191 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Working on the support frame for my trunk lid so it opens from the back instead of the front. I'm planning on using 14ga steel, but may need to go to 16ga if I can't find a tool for this. Preferably I'd like an angled, not flat, flange. Most the hand or pneumatic tools out there only do a flat flange for like an overlap weld joint. Anyone seen or used a hand (pneumatic) tool with something other than a flat flange?
Here's the drawing for the support frame (in orange). They'll plasma cut the pieces for me, so I need to find a method to flange these cutouts that lighten the piece, to add the strength back in. ![]() If I can't find a hand tool for this, I'll need to go with a press and some hole flange tools - but those I can add without having these shapes pre-cut. ![]() |
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| rick 918-S |
Nov 7 2016, 03:51 PM
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#2
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Hey nice rack! -Celette ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 21,112 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region
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I think I used Plywood as a buck for this panel. It's been awhile since I made it. I recall cutting out the shape of the high profile and using a broad masons chisel to hammer the low profile into the part. I recall making a sandwich fixture to hold the high line flat. As you can see the part is actually deeper on the long taper then the short taper.
BTW: You would be light years ahead if you sourced a tilt mechanism from a BMW 2002. Someone else on the form used one once and it worked out pretty slick. Attached image(s)
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| 3d914 |
Nov 14 2016, 07:07 PM
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#3
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,275 Joined: 24-September 03 From: Benson, AZ Member No.: 1,191 Region Association: Southwest Region |
I think I used Plywood as a buck for this panel. It's been awhile since I made it. I recall cutting out the shape of the high profile and using a broad masons chisel to hammer the low profile into the part. I recall making a sandwich fixture to hold the high line flat. As you can see the part is actually deeper on the long taper then the short taper. BTW: You would be light years ahead if you sourced a tilt mechanism from a BMW 2002. Someone else on the form used one once and it worked out pretty slick. Rick, what gauge sheet was that? I think I may just go to 16ga and do it manually as you've done and others suggest. Another option with 16ga is to buy a 1-1/2 circular flange die to use. Very nice work by the way. |
| rick 918-S |
Nov 15 2016, 07:26 AM
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#4
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Hey nice rack! -Celette ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 21,112 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region
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I think I used Plywood as a buck for this panel. It's been awhile since I made it. I recall cutting out the shape of the high profile and using a broad masons chisel to hammer the low profile into the part. I recall making a sandwich fixture to hold the high line flat. As you can see the part is actually deeper on the long taper then the short taper. BTW: You would be light years ahead if you sourced a tilt mechanism from a BMW 2002. Someone else on the form used one once and it worked out pretty slick. Rick, what gauge sheet was that? I think I may just go to 16ga and do it manually as you've done and others suggest. Another option with 16ga is to buy a 1-1/2 circular flange die to use. Very nice work by the way. If you flange the edges you should be able to go with 18 Ga. A small piece gets incredibly strong when you flange it that way. If you end up deciding on 16 Ga. You will want to aneal it. Here is an example of the process. Blow raw acetylene on both sides. Thinner metal only one side is necessary. Light a neutral flame, wave it over the panel until the acetylene vanishes. The expands the molecules making the part softer and easier to work. This was a butt welded seam that was metal finished. |
3d914 Sheet metal help - Need angled flange tool? Nov 6 2016, 12:26 PM
McMark A bead roller might be able to do what you need, b... Nov 6 2016, 01:54 PM
3d914
A bead roller might be able to do what you need, ... Nov 6 2016, 05:59 PM
McMark
With all the pneumatic flange tools out there, yo... Nov 7 2016, 11:39 AM
914forme
With all the pneumatic flange tools out there, y... Nov 7 2016, 01:28 PM
dlee6204 So what are the internal cutouts for? Weight savi... Nov 6 2016, 06:12 PM
3d914
So what are the internal cutouts for? Weight sav... Nov 14 2016, 07:03 PM
914forme Hammer forming them is the best way to do them as ... Nov 6 2016, 07:00 PM
914_teener
Hammer forming them is the best way to do them as... Nov 7 2016, 11:01 AM
mbseto :agree:
Hammer form using McMark's wooden bu... Nov 7 2016, 10:45 AM
Valy Not sure how much reinforcing you need but this ma... Nov 7 2016, 11:13 AM
914_teener Rick....nice work.
Never forget you and Mark work... Nov 7 2016, 04:21 PM
tygaboy If you're not stuck on those cut out shapes, y... Nov 14 2016, 07:13 PM
3d914
If you're not stuck on those cut out shapes, ... Nov 16 2016, 07:51 AM
mbseto This is a mini-clinic. Nov 15 2016, 10:25 AM
3d914 Rick, your example makes sense, and thanks for sha... Nov 16 2016, 08:06 AM
3d914 Here's what I came up with. Found a 1.5" ... Dec 4 2016, 10:10 AM
Catorse Looks great and will be plenty strong. Where did y... Dec 4 2016, 12:06 PM![]() ![]() |
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