Treating the longs, advice needed Options

[amfab]

Hi, I have a question about treating the inside of the longs. I have some rust issues in the back of the long—jack point areas. I am cutting out and replacing the weak areas.

The area to the front of the jack point has some surface rust, but the metal is solid so I do not want to cut further forward. I am also going to put Brad Mayeurs kit over it all, so I am not worried about strength, I do however want to convert/seal the inside of the long going forward, before I install the kit to prevent further degredation.

What is the best/easiest way to do this? I was looking at the Eastwood green aerosol frame stuff, the converter/sealer that has the hose, or maybe Ospho, but I am trying to not damage the heater hoses in there and still get decent coverage. I don't know how to get the aerosol hose up into the long

Any suggestions? Can the heater hoses be pulled out and replaced without cutting the inner rocker completely out? What are they made of anyway?

Thanks for any suggestions

-Andrew

[BeatNavy]

And here's what it may look like on the inside if you have rust issues and the PO did a sketchy hell hole / long repair job (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif)

I would think the interior frame coating products would help (couldn't hurt), but they're more for prevention of rust damage (or further damage). If you already have a lot of metal detritus in the longs (as shown below), you probably need to open 'em up. As mentioned, you can put a scope in inside and take a look (but you may not like what you see (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) ).

The PO of my car pictured here didn't want to go inside to treat the longs. He slapped a Brad Mayeur kit on the outside of the longs (I didn't know about the kit then and it took me a while to figure out why I seemed to have three layers of metal at the seams). The Brad Mayeur kit did a good job of preserving structural shape and integrity even as the insides were rotting, but my goal is complete resto, so I wanted to get all this garbage fixed.

[tomrev]

I'v had good luck with the Eastwood spray, both on my 914's, and other projects. If you do have a fairly clean inner area, but no, or limited access, I have drilled a 5/16's hole every 2 ft. or so, to insert the tube sprayer, then capped with a rivet, etc. once finished. With the 914, you will see the extra running out the drain holes underneath, and can confirm you are treating the full length.